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Old 07-26-2015, 06:05 PM   #121
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Re: 1983 S-10 Durango Longbed Refurb

Dang man, That's really looking sweet. It may not be a show vehicle but it looks great in the line up!
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Old 07-26-2015, 09:35 PM   #122
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Re: 1983 S-10 Durango Longbed Refurb

Thanks Ron, she cleans up pretty good.
Whew just finished cutting ours and Lynn's mother's grass and it's 95* outside which reminded me, it's been 95* to 100* with a heat index of 110* to 115* the truck is running 187* to 190 in stop and go traffic, which is Awesome!!
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Old 07-27-2015, 03:06 AM   #123
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Re: 1983 S-10 Durango Longbed Refurb

What did you do to make the temperature difference?
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:31 PM   #124
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Re: 1983 S-10 Durango Longbed Refurb

It's been a while since I have updated. Ron the point to radiator is that it's still the 2.8L 3 row copper core, brass tanks setup, which I have a update on that too.
We have been putting some miles on the truck now I think about 8,000 so far, with some hiccups, I don't have all the pictures loaded up. For some I'm not able to get pics off of my phone right now, so will put up what I have right now.
Clutch cable setups, the system you either love them or you want to shoot yourself in the foot, Ha! When any part of the system binds, it's lets you know. With us using the truck more often, I've had half of a stud that we had used as a pin that would make contact on both side of the old fork setup, going to pull that part out to look at what's going on with it, when I was taking it out I saw that on the bottom there was a crack on it...


this is the side that still had the pin attached to the plastic quadrant and bent the weaker side of the fork, when it could no longer hold up it bent it to the point where the cable popped out of the center groove and went to the floor. Sad part was that Lynn was on the highway when it happened, she pulled over at least to the closets parking lot and called me, I got off of work and found her. Lynn was afraid to drive without it messing something up, I don't blame her, most can't drive without a clutch. It worked out not to bad, in 9 miles only had to shift 3 times, so I at least drove it straight to the barn and tore it apart to see what had happened and this was I found so far.


I definitely want to go hydraulic, but this was a easy enough fix to keep it on the road. Ran a 5/16 bolt with long enough threads on both sides that I could run 2 lock nuts on both sides and have it centered over the forks, put the fork in a vice and bent it straight put a small bead over the crack, greased it up and put it back together...






Worked great, like brand new!! I decided to do the throw out-bearing and while I had that out I was going to replace both cables, at this point I need to load some more pictures.
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:11 PM   #125
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Re: 1983 S-10 Durango Longbed Refurb

Didn't think about this, this used to be a self-adjusting setup a pawl would sit in between the top part of the fork, down to the top of the quadrant. Those parts were are getting hard to find, eliminating the pawl and just running make shift stud in a existing hole in the gear, clocked the gear in the right spot till the stud broke in half. Lets see I put it back together and jacked up the rear and tried it, worked good.
The clutch disk and pressure plate have about 8,000 on them, but I saw the throw out bearing has a lot of play in it, so figured that while I'm messing with this part of it to go and do the bearing and be done with it, along with the cables. The upper cable I still available not the lower, I managed to match one from a 79' Chevette which worked, 40 bucks for both. Stared with knowing everything works right not, the shifter has a upper and inside ring that hole the boot down...


with that out, just looking where it was last positioned and then went underneath to pull the drive shaft, cross member, speed-o cable.

Looks like I need to get the seal for the gear inside the speed-o housing, I pulled the trans. pulled the fork out got the old bearing off and slid on the new one, grease the end of the fork slid that back onto the pivot ball stud, here I needed to readjust the pivot pin. With the new bearing place I had to re-adjust the height...

I have everything adjusted and it works pretty good, so I'm going to replace the cables at this time. Not may pictures of this point a lot of up and down guiding and pulling back into place till it matches the old position that worked right. Test drive...


had to pull over to take this shot,


well that lasted a whole week and a half till this happened...

the 30 year old plastic part snapped in half, I did a lot searching and came up with a big nothing, and even if I did find the part it's still a 30 yr old part that might do the same thing, it was looking like it was going to be that needle in a hay stack trying to find it. I have nothing left here in the barn as far as scrape to come up with the same shape of what I needed, I also asked buddies around here if they had anything that I might be able to use, but nothing they had would work. I priced out curved steel that I might be able cut and weld into place as a replacement quadrant, I was running out of options. I haven't thought of which way to go with a hydraulic setup, and I cant be down long. I ended up calling around and trying to get ahold of a buddy who had a machine shop, but he went under, sad. Found a machine shop here in town that I was able to talk to the owner, and told him what I had and what I was looking for so I could make a new quadrant, I wanted to have a brass center bushing pressed in too. Wow steel is not cheap, he said for 40 more bucks he would assemble what I wanted and could have it ready by the end of the day, so I let him. This is how it turned out, I wanted it to be solid piece but he thought this would be easier to come up with in the time frame with less machining...

it's what I was looking to do, the only thing we didn't think of was I forgot to clock it to the right position, so had to grind down the tabs that he had put into place and re-weld the quadrant into place.




Time to take it for a test drive...


got about 2 1/2 miles down the road and had a good solid clutch pedal that worked, SWEET!! But when I was coming to the stop sign, it didn't stop right, the pedal was a lot lower than before and just holding it there it was dropping almost to the floor. Turned the truck around and got it back home and looked for any external leaks, nothing. My guess is the master just finally let go internally, went to auto zone and 20 bucks had one with life time warranty.
I'm usually doing this stuff by myself, so started with bench bleeding the master before I pulled the old one, used a tool I use for pushing in rear brake shoe clips, it worked well enough to get all air out of the master.




Well Lynn suggested that we made a road trip to the other side of town, she said that she had a happy for me there, I had already taken the truck for another test drive and I felt safe and good to roll.


I need to down load some more pictures at this point. It dose get better .

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Old 01-04-2016, 09:02 AM   #126
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Re: 1983 S-10 Durango Longbed Refurb

I had an '85 S15... I never realized they were cable clutch activated. Nice fix replacing the plastic with steel. So how do you adjust the free pedal?
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Old 01-04-2016, 09:57 PM   #127
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Re: 1983 S-10 Durango Longbed Refurb

Hey John, How are you ? GM did it from 82 to 83, they went hydraulic 84 and up. The adjustment is on the lower cable down by the fork, which is fine as long as the top one stays slack free we are good to go. I found a reservoir at a local yard but didn't have cash in hand, and I think I'm going to do GM's hyd. throw out bearing, eliminating the fork all together, was going to do McLeod's slip-on or maybe the bolt-on but not sure.

We ended up going to a friends farm outside of town and was quickly greeted by Odie...


and Mama...


well, what this was all about is that we were the first couple that get to pick from there litter they just had. I forgot it has been 6 weeks since it was mentioned about a puppy, I really completely forgot!! So this was a nice change, out of nine we picked this little joker, we are calling him Tucker, he's a Blue Healer. His mama is half red and blue and papa is all blue, lol.


We found out that he got car sick thank goodness we had a towel handy...


My neighbor had filled his freezers with deer meat and gave me a rear haunch. I made up a dry rub and covered it pretty good, deer meat is very lean so Lynn weaved up a blanket of bacon, which worked prefect. I marinated the meat in Coke, usually do red wine, Coke works great too. I did a 6.5 hr. smoke of hickory wood I have been saving up until the internal temp came up to 160*, turned out great!






It has been several weeks now and finally the other 2 dogs are coming around to Tucker.


Also now this happened when we got this first cold snap that dropped us down to 27*, I sprung several cracks in the top and bottom of the radiator, as clean as it was time just caught up to it and my option were slime yet again, I had a hard time trying to find a replacement brass tanks copper cores radiator. Most were made of aluminum cores and plastic tanks, not a big fan of that. I called around here and found a shop that makes Aluminum radiators and he explained that they started at 400, he was boasting of his tig skills and bigger tanks, so I asked if that would be a exact replacement. He explained to me that, that oh no I would have to make braces to hold the radiator in place and that I would have to do the same to the shroud. I said, sorry I wanted to do a re-core instead, he said he didn't do that, after a few calls around I'm finding out that there's another trade that is dying out.
I finally found a place in Oxford, MS which is a hr. away and well for the price it was worth it to me, a drop in perfect fit which it should be.

I love how easy it is to pull it out...


It was getting late when I came back from getting the radiator, so I decided to back flush the heater core before I put the radiator back in.


I got her all back together and did a 12 mile run up to and down the highway and back did a big circle, popped the hood and put the digital meter on the thermostat housing...


the lower hose...


then held it on the upper radiator while it idled for 10 mins. the thermostat opened and closed again and I topped it off, no more leaks I'm very happy with it. Good times !!


Get this I thought I would go to the feed store and take a guess at what the weight is on the truck, mind you that it has full interior, it came up to 3400 lbs , I think I might try another place to compare the weights.

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1st Gen., 355, Carter, CarterAFB 600, edelbrock, Heater Core Replacement, performer rpm intake, S-10 Durango Longbed, S-Dime, S10 v8

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