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Blackedoutharley
09-20-2012, 04:36 AM
Okay, I have been tearing up photobucket... hope this works!

Some of these may have been posted in my other thread...

As it sat 2 years ago:

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/Picture619.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/Picture618.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/Picture012-1.jpg

Interior (I can't believe how much I have neglected this truck over the years :mad: )

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/Picture013-2.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/Picture631.jpg



After disassembly:

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/Picture019_zpsd2f4a90f.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/IMAG0307_zpse27978ef.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/Picture020_zpsd034aafe.jpg

Progress!!!
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/framepainting1_zps30c2e09a.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/Picture037_zpsb412efdc.jpg

As it sits currently:

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/frame2_zpse00be908.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/frame1_zps65b74e5d.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/firewall6_zps5a3db020.jpg

Suspension assembly this weekend and hope to have it back on its tires by Sunday evening.

More to follow I'm sure.

Az Geezer
09-20-2012, 08:26 AM
Good for you! Keep us posted on progress.
Bill

Danny@ridetech
09-20-2012, 10:08 AM
Looking good!! Cant wait to see it done!

Blackedoutharley
09-20-2012, 03:06 PM
Received my new Champion radiator this morning!

Blackedoutharley
09-22-2012, 03:35 AM
Several friends have told me "install aluminum heads! You'll take a ton of weight off the front end"....

Well this isn't a race car and I took a ton off the front end..... by cleaning all the grease off the spindles and backing plates!

ROYO
09-22-2012, 08:29 AM
Looking good

Blackedoutharley
09-24-2012, 12:32 AM
Front suspension is done! Linkage and gear box next then bolt up the sway bar!
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/new3_zpsb96e1994.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/new5_zps9b493864.jpg

New Champion radiator test fit.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/radiator2_zps8c8f67f8.jpg

Not overly thrilled with where they placed the drain valve or the lower radiator hose outlet but....

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/radiator7_zps53582578.jpg

Regarding power steering: those that have done this what kit did you use to mount the box to the frame and what did you like or dislike about it?
I have a new tilt column from CPP which a 1" DD output so replacing the entire shaft isn't out of the question but I would really like to use a box mounting plate that is simple and requires minimal drilling and preferably no drilling on the box itself.

Chicago5
09-24-2012, 09:45 AM
Good work. Is it just the tight clearance on the lower valve and hose? They look real close to the support. It's a beefy radiator though. Thanks for sharing.

Blackedoutharley
09-24-2012, 10:42 AM
Yeah, for whatever reason I keep thinking that the radiator should sit centered in the frame rails but the hose barb doesn't allow that. Also the upper mount is going to need some spreading to fit over the top tank.
Otherwise it seems to be a quality piece.

Rich 5150 69
09-24-2012, 11:22 AM
Front suspension is done! Linkage and gear box next then bolt up the sway bar!
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/new3_zpsb96e1994.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/new5_zps9b493864.jpg

New Champion radiator test fit.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/radiator2_zps8c8f67f8.jpg

Not overly thrilled with where they placed the drain valve or the lower radiator hose outlet but....

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/radiator7_zps53582578.jpg

Regarding power steering: those that have done this what kit did you use to mount the box to the frame and what did you like or dislike about it?
I have a new tilt column from CPP which a 1" DD output so replacing the entire shaft isn't out of the question but I would really like to use a box mounting plate that is simple and requires minimal drilling and preferably no drilling on the box itself.

The lower drain in the rad is placed there to clear the factory shoud and the lower saddle is close the the bottom hose barb but hasn`t created any problems, your upper tank retainer you will not be able to use the thick rubber, I ended up using vaccum hose two strips to run around all three sides. it fits snug and its close. thesteering you`ll need a Rez kit or get one from Capt Fab, he sells a nice piece but you will need one to save the frame or it will crack.

Blackedoutharley
09-24-2012, 11:48 AM
I like the one from CaptFab as it doesn't require drilling out the gearbox mounting but I don't think he is on here and I am no longer able to post on the other site (which seems to be a popular thing with them :rolleyes:).

So on the upper mount it can be used but have to replace the cushions for something thinner?

I would love to check out your truck someday Rich!

Rich 5150 69
09-24-2012, 02:32 PM
I like the one from CaptFab as it doesn't require drilling out the gearbox mounting but I don't think he is on here and I am no longer able to post on the other site (which seems to be a popular thing with them :rolleyes:).

So on the upper mount it can be used but have to replace the cushions for something thinner?

I would love to check out your truck someday Rich!

I believe you can click on his links and get a e-mail address without a logon... Ah the darkside stikes again.....:popworm:

Az Geezer
09-24-2012, 03:27 PM
I like the one from CaptFab as it doesn't require drilling out the gearbox mounting but I don't think he is on here and I am no longer able to post on the other site (which seems to be a popular thing with them :rolleyes:).

So on the upper mount it can be used but have to replace the cushions for something thinner?

I would love to check out your truck someday Rich!

no longer able to post on the other site????????What, is it down???LOL

Blackedoutharley
09-24-2012, 03:41 PM
Nope, somebody needs to invite him here.

Blackedoutharley
09-24-2012, 03:43 PM
no longer able to post on the other site????????What, is it down???LOL


Lets just say that I have an ex-wife that one of the site owners reminds me of. :wink:

Sad actually, its a great site.

Az Geezer
09-24-2012, 04:00 PM
Believe me, we know who you are talking about..........

Rich 5150 69
09-24-2012, 10:32 PM
Nope, somebody needs to invite him here.

I sent out an e-mail.......

Blackedoutharley
09-29-2012, 04:05 AM
So in discussing shocks on other threads I got one for you guys pertaining to my truck.

I have installed 2" drop coils in the front of my truck shown above and plan on installing a 2" block in the rear.

I run what I consider a very good shock and have for many, many years. I prefer the Gabriel line from past use and personal experience.

I am questioning if it is even a concern with running a "lowered" shock with such as minimal amount of drop.

The factory shock specs from Gabriel are this:

Front:
Extended length 14.98"
Compressed length 9.95"
Stroke 5.03"



Rear:
Extended length 19.86"
Compressed length 12.58"
Stroke 7.28"


I have always had the Gabriel "Ultra" shock on this truck in one
model name or another (when I worked at stocking dealers years
ago it was called the "Gas Ryder LT") but they have a new shock
out that is called a "Max Control".

The biggest difference as far as I can tell is the Max Control has
a 1 13/16" bore vs. 1 3/8" for the Ultra, it comes with a
bellows boot and is a "MonoTube" shock.

Of course being that I am doing it and things seem to never be simple... they don't make the new shock for the rear of my truck.

Checking the mounting charts and specs there are two other shocks that would work but I am wondering if its worth the headaches or with only a 2" drop if its even needed.

Thoughts?

P.S. Truck has progressive rate Moog Cargo coils in the rear
which is why I am not going to a dropped spring. This will see
heavy loads on occasion. I run about the largest tire that will fit (30.5" tall) and it has a hellwig rear sway bar installed.

Lakeroadster
09-29-2012, 08:19 AM
Thoughts?

I simply used a tape measure to determine collapsed length. (Actual eye to eye mounted length - distance from axle to snubber-1/2" for snubber compression) My concern was that the shocks would bottom out before the snubbers engaged.

You also might want to throw an angle finder on the shocks to see if an upper shock relocation bracket is needed.

Hope this helps!

John

ROYO
09-29-2012, 10:41 AM
I simply used a tape measure to determine collapsed length. (Actual eye to eye mounted length - distance from axle to snubber-1/2" for snubber compression) My concern was that the shocks would bottom out before the snubbers engaged.

You also might want to throw an angle finder on the shocks to see if an upper shock relocation bracket is needed.

Hope this helps!

John
Good idea on the shocks Captfab can be found on SDs site as well. I have a few things from him.

Rich 5150 69
09-29-2012, 10:43 AM
Just a two inch drop in the rear ...might not have to change...front maybe a another issue...rear shock angle even at stock height is still going to be in the 35 to 38 degree range...it was not a good design in my mind...

Blackedoutharley
09-29-2012, 03:05 PM
Captfab can be found on SDs site as well. I have a few things from him.

SDs site?

ROYO
09-29-2012, 06:19 PM
http://c10forum.com/forum/member.php?u=6180

Rich 5150 69
09-30-2012, 10:33 AM
Just so you guys know thats also kin to the darkside...:eek:

Blackedoutharley
09-30-2012, 03:22 PM
Is it now?

ROYO
09-30-2012, 08:14 PM
What does that meen. did i post a bad link? it works for me. now we are hy jacking this thread

Blackedoutharley
09-30-2012, 09:24 PM
Don't worry I have been known to hijack threads before including ones I start! LOL

Blackedoutharley
09-30-2012, 09:58 PM
Actually got the tires on it today!

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/front1.jpg

Sits a bit lower than I expected or I am having trouble remembering how low it sat previously.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/front4.jpg

On another note... for those still running drum brakes you may have noticed that when swapping to aftermarket aluminum wheels that the factory studs are a bit short. When you install them there isn't much thread available to get enough engagement for the lug nuts.
Just for reference the amount of engagement should be equal to the diameter of the stud... 7/16" stud = 7/16" of thread engagement and so on, at a minimum.
Well, in going through the front end on my truck I replaced all the studs along with the bearings and races (that was an adventure!). The Dorman brand stud for my '65, #610-186 is about an 1/8" longer underhead length than the "original" ones I removed.
It's not enough to cause problems with the wheel seating up correctly though.

To further ensure that the wheels are properly mounted I use and highly recommend what is commonly known in the industry as an "ET Lugnut" shown here:

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/hubconv/hubconv-26a.jpg

This style still has the 60* conical seat for the wheel but adds a small "shank" that allows more thread engagement. Obviously if you're running the old "Slot" style mags most of them required a shank mag lug nut with washer so the ET lug is not applicable but if you're running a wheel with a thick hub and conical seat lugs this is the hot ticket.
Sadly, most people in tire shops have no idea what this is.

Hope this helps somebody from having a wheel come off!

Blackedoutharley
09-30-2012, 10:01 PM
P.S. anybody have a trick for installing the rubber snubbers in the lower control arm?

Chicago5
10-01-2012, 09:37 AM
No tricks. But I'm impressed how your outdoor work area is more clean than my garage.

Rich 5150 69
10-01-2012, 10:42 AM
P.S. anybody have a trick for installing the rubber snubbers in the lower control arm?

Hey thanks for the tips on the lugs... as far as the rubbers i heated mine up in hot water (on the stove ) suspended with a coat hanger so as not to burn it on the bottom, wearing a welding glove or a canvas glove and a little Vaseline it went right on.

Blackedoutharley
10-01-2012, 11:56 AM
No tricks. But I'm impressed how your outdoor work area is more clean than my garage.


LOL! Don't get too excited; the garage is full and a disaster and my work bench looks like it was hit by a tornado!

I would be doing this in the garage if I had my choice but there isn't room with this in there.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/Cars/DSC_0267.jpg

And I tried to put it where the truck sits but the wife was not having any of that idea. I hate this car!

Great idea with the snubbers Rich, thanks!

Chicago5
10-03-2012, 10:11 AM
Oh my goodness. Not only did I dribble a little coffee, my wife accused me of looking at college volley ball players. I mean, by the look on my face, I guess. Anyway, totally love this car. In my other life, I have an IROC and a Trans Am or Firebird just like this.

Blackedoutharley
10-11-2012, 03:33 AM
Well Summit got another chunk of change from me this afternoon.... Other than the clutch I am picking up on Friday I think I have now purchased every piece needed to put this thing back together and running.
Bearings, Gaskets, heads and fuel system was the bulk of the stuff I was missing but its on its way now.

Chicago, that car was my wife's first car when she turned 16 and up until '00 was the only car she had owned.... I had to rebuild the engine then did the interior and the paint after it was hit while parked.
Now that its all pretty she is afraid to drive the **** thing.
Being that it is an original California car it was a dog with the factory 403 Olds. She succeeded in cooking that enough to make it unusable so I started fresh.

Chicago5
10-11-2012, 09:16 AM
Great story behind the car. Love it.

Blackedoutharley
10-12-2012, 02:11 AM
I must say that Summit continues to impress me with their shipping... I placed an order Weds @ 6pm... checked the UPS tracker Weds night @ midnight and the stuff was already in Sacramento. Received this afternoon at the house.

24 hours from order to delivery is pretty good in my book.

Now the heads... (photos taken with nothing done to heads other than removing from packaging. No cleaning, no wiping, nothing)

These are Summit brand iron heads # 152123. The obvious question is who makes these for Summit?
Well these are made by Dart. In fact they have a Dart part number on the face of the head and the foundry casting mark between the valves.

They are 72cc chambers, 165cc intake runners, 2.02"/1.60" valves with 1.25" Comp springs and screw in studs. Nothing crazy, nothing exotic, just a good functional head.

I was just looking at this head tonight when I got home and realized that with my dad owning a machine shop, and my mother running a speed shop/parts house, when I was younger I have never owned a brand new cylinder head.... I always refurbed old ones with all new parts because the labor was free and parts were at W.D.


My new rockers look cool on there!
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/rockers1.jpg

Exhaust side:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/heads6.jpg

Springs & intake face:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/heads7.jpg

Valves:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/heads1.jpg

Spec sheet:
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/sum-152123a.pdf

They will need a very minor bit of "dressing" on the intake ports to remove a few sharp edges and gasket matching but otherwise I see nothing in need of attention that was overlooked at the factory.

The only thing I can find "wrong" with them is they stamped the Summit logo on both ends of the heads... just one end would have been great but I will make a nice aluminum plate to cover the passenger head and my alternator bracket covers the other.

All in all a great deal @ $620 per pair assembled! And based on appearances out of the box I wouldn't hesitate recommending these to somebody looking for an upgrade iron small block chevy head.

Lakeroadster
10-12-2012, 07:02 AM
Awesome, thanks for the information and photo's!

Rich 5150 69
10-12-2012, 02:06 PM
Did a little snooping on them over in the Nasty z28 site they did find that they are the old style Dart iron eagle heads made by them, so its a good deal in anybodys book...

LostMy65
10-15-2012, 12:23 AM
I sent out an e-mail.......

I pm'd a member there a link to this site, and they scrambled it. :tongue1:

Here's how they scrambled it:
http://www.********************/forum/showthread.php?t=3101

Blackedoutharley
10-15-2012, 02:49 AM
I haven't heard from him or been able to find him elsewhere but I also haven't been able to locate either of the two steering boxes I had.... I will need the plate regardless but its not like I am going to be able to install it this weekend.

Rich 5150 69
10-15-2012, 04:45 AM
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1960_1972_Chevy_Truck/6366PSK.htm

CPP

Blackedoutharley
10-15-2012, 02:47 PM
I saw theirs but I like that CaptFab's doesn't require drilling out the mounting hole on the gear box.

I will probably end up going that route though.

Got the block primered.... Painting this evening and I might actually start assembly this week!

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/primer3.jpg

Blackedoutharley
10-20-2012, 05:42 AM
I actually got more stuff done and much more to follow this weekend.

Mocked up my alternator bracket with parts from a Zoops kit using a GM factory head bracket.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/alt1.jpg

Hung the rings on the new pistons. boy that is a lot of parts!
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/IMAG0425.jpg

Honed the cylinders and lifter bores, cleaned the block and crank and got it installed between dinner and desert tonight then finished dropping pistons in afterwards.
Blueberry / Apple pie with vanilla ice cream for those interested, LOL!

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/IMAG0433.jpg

And for whatever reason Fel-Pro thought that it would be too much trouble to include the rear main seal in their "complete" gasket kit... Had to run to O'reilly's about 15 miles round trip! :mad:

enigma
10-20-2012, 08:52 PM
oh how nice of them cheap a@#'&

Rich 5150 69
10-20-2012, 10:17 PM
I actually got more stuff done and much more to follow this weekend.

Mocked up my alternator bracket with parts from a Zoops kit using a GM factory head bracket.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/alt1.jpg

Hung the rings on the new pistons. boy that is a lot of parts!
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/IMAG0425.jpg

Honed the cylinders and lifter bores, cleaned the block and crank and got it installed between dinner and desert tonight then finished dropping pistons in afterwards.
Blueberry / Apple pie with vanilla ice cream for those interested, LOL!

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/IMAG0433.jpg

And for whatever reason Fel-Pro thought that it would be too much trouble to include the rear main seal in their "complete" gasket kit... Had to run to O'reilly's about 15 miles round trip! :mad:

The sway bar pivot mounts I bought didnot have the bolts in them, it had the washers but no bolts, just enough to throw me into a fit....:furious::gah:

Blackedoutharley
10-21-2012, 03:02 AM
Oh it gets better... turns out that the gasket kit also doesn't have a timing cover crank seal!
Cheap bastards!

Rich 5150 69
10-21-2012, 09:38 AM
Ouch...must have been a Monday or Friday box....:grin:

Blackedoutharley
10-22-2012, 12:40 AM
No, its not part of the kit amazingly.... being honest I probably clicked no on the oil pan gasket and it automatically defaulted to this kit. I was more concerned with getting the proper head gaskets but I never expected a gasket set to not include the rear or timing seals.

Heads installed today... pics to follow.

Blackedoutharley
11-01-2012, 02:54 AM
Okay, time for more pictures....
First the alternator bracket.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/altmount4.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/altmount2.jpg

I bought a Zoops billet alternator bracket but in my recurring episodes of brain fade I couldn't for the life of me figure out how it mounted to the head when only one bolt hole lined up. Called Zoops and after some emails back & forth it turns out only one bolt is supposed to go into the head and the other goes through the "L" bracket to the water pump and then a set screw is set in the head for further stability. Before they set me straight I mocked up this using the factory bracket and the "9 o'clock bracket and adjusting rod from their kit.
I like this so much that I wanted another 9 o'clock bracket and adjusting rod and the guy says "I'll send you one!"
WOW! CPP could sure learn a lot from Zoops on what customer satisfaction means. :mad:

Here is the 9 o'clock bracket looking from the rear.. 140 amp 1 wire alt.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/altmount7.jpg

Loosen two jam nuts, turn the adjuster sleeve and bam! Belt tension properly set!

Blasted, primed and painted stock oil pan with Rustoleum hammered black paint. Installed new oil pan stud kit. Painted block and heads "cast grey" using Summit brand paint (which I will never do again!). Also installed new pet**** valves in the drains at the bottom of the block.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/assemble9.jpg

Beginning of fuel system... Using Fragola fittings and hose.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/fuelsystm1.jpg

As it sits now (brass freeze plugs installed since photo taken)...

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/neweng12.jpg

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc155/blackedoutharley/truck%20stuff/neweng10.jpg

Good thing I have connections at ARP... I'd be broke buying bolts alone!

Engine:
Late model replacement "Hecho en Mexico" Targetmaster 350 4 bolt main block.
Standard 4.00" bore
Stock standard cast crank
Early steel rods resized, wet magged, new rod bolts.
TRW forged flat top pistons (should be about 9.3:1 compression)
Melling hi volume (stock pressure) pump with ARP stud and drive shaft
Clevite 77 bearings
Comp XE268H cam (.477" intake .480" exhaust lift, 268* int 280* exh advertised duration).
Comp true roller timing set
Comp pushrods
Comp roller rockers ( I think these are going to turn out to be the best value in a rocker arm... aluminum full roller rocker $160 per set including poly locks.
Carter pump with Comp Cams pushrod, ARP bolts & -6 AN hose and fittings from Fragola w/ Marshall pressure gauge.
Lifter valley baffle
Summit / Dart heads (details elsewhere in this thread)
Speed Pro lifters
Summit 8" dampener
Weiand aluminum water pump
New valve covers, timing cover etc....
GM HEI ignition with MSD module, cap, rotor, wires & coil
Performer RPM intake (bought new in '94 and was on truck before) with simple Holley 600 4 barrel. I will probably swap to my 600 double pumper once the engine is broke in. I also have a deal cooking on an Air Gap RPM that may end up on here instead.
Every bolt is ARP, except oil pan studs (Milodon), including new flywheel and pressure plate bolts ( I have experienced a clutch explosion first hand so I always replace them). Head bolts, mains, cam etc....
Resurfaced GM 40lb flywheel and new 12" Ram clutch assy.
All Fel Pro gaskets
Need to buy new fan and clutch.

Will finish final assembly and get it buttoned up next weekend after I return from Vegas

More to follow...

Rich 5150 69
11-01-2012, 10:51 AM
Way neat bracket BOH.....they do have some neat products, I may have to use that one when I do the rebuild with headers...thanks for posting the pics.

Blackedoutharley
11-12-2012, 02:12 PM
You know what happens when you're not in a "hurry" to get something back together because its not your daily driver?

You start second guessing your choices or contemplating other changes.....

My 409 would be super cool in this truck..... LOL.

OLD 9
11-12-2012, 06:03 PM
You know what happens when you're not in a "hurry" to get something back together because its not your daily driver?

You start second guessing your choices or contemplating other changes.....

My 409 would be super cool in this truck..... LOL.

409 like "she's real fine" sort of 409? That would be WAY COOL but that small block is very impresive too.

Rich 5150 69
11-12-2012, 08:32 PM
409...? That would have been the first thing installed in my book. :eek:
There was one on CL a couple of days ago, in your area for 2500,needed rebuild. :yes:

Lakeroadster
11-12-2012, 10:28 PM
I'm all in...

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/Generic%20Chevrolet%20Pickup/Engine20622040920Bubbletop20Rochester202005.jpg

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/Generic%20Chevrolet%20Pickup/sucp_0704_03_z1962_chevy_bel_air409_engine.jpg

Blackedoutharley
11-13-2012, 01:24 AM
ZOMG!!!!!!!!!!!! Those bowtie valve covers are very nice!
I have a cherry set of factory 425 hp chrome ones and a set of original Moon covers but I like those in the picture above!

I strongly considered installing the 409 but it is just too radical (11:1 comp, big solid Herbert cam etc) for what I am doing (the SBC is at the verge of being more than I wanted).
Besides, I am hoping to someday install the 409 in something smaller like a '65 ElCamino, '62 Biscayne or even a '65 Nova would be awesome!

Lakeroadster
11-13-2012, 07:54 AM
Besides, I am hoping to someday install the 409 in something smaller like a '65 ElCamino, '62 Biscayne or even a '65 Nova would be awesome!

Yes... that would be awesome! :ohyes:

Az Geezer
11-13-2012, 10:24 AM
I like the 62 Biscayne idea, myself.

OLD 9
11-13-2012, 10:53 AM
I like the 62 Biscayne idea, myself.

I agree. I belive the last year for the 409 was 1964. I think anything 64 or older would be a real cool ride with a 409.

Az Geezer
11-13-2012, 11:04 AM
Mark, some early 65's came with 409's, I think, but I still remember guys putting 3 duece carbs and manifolds from 348s on the 409s.......

Blackedoutharley
11-13-2012, 02:43 PM
Yep, '65 was the last year for the 409.

The one I have is a December '64 production and has steel rods, Arias pistons, forged crank (that was turned, balanced, nitrated and knife edged by Sammy Hale) and a very nice set of June '64 iron heads that have been through the "extrude hone" process then shot peened and baked prior to new valves etc..

I have had the engine for over 25 years and it was in my '59 Parkwood wagon at one time (prior to my divorce).

Once the truck is running I will begin searching for a home for this one.

Az Geezer
11-13-2012, 02:53 PM
BOH.......where are you located? Lots of good project cars here in the southwest.......
Bill

Blackedoutharley
11-13-2012, 08:45 PM
I am near Sacramento, Ca.

Quite a haul to Az....

Az Geezer
11-13-2012, 08:50 PM
I can meet you half way.........

BAGGED70C-10
11-13-2012, 09:16 PM
Gotta love the 409's! I ran one in high school in a 1960 Chevy hardtop. Dual Quad factory hi horse.. I traded my girlfriends Dad my 348 for his 409. He didn't like the gas prices...LOL Image that, 19.9 cents a gallon..

Wished I had it now, it would go into my truck..

Blackedoutharley
11-16-2012, 12:12 AM
Two questions....

Has anybody ever used a gear reduction starter with the factory bellhousing? My truck has the original SM420 and the starter bolts to the bellhousing rather than the block but I would like to install a Tilton starter on my new motor.

Second has anybody ever used one of the SSBC disc conversion kits that utilize the stock drum spindle?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a126-7/overview/year/1963/make/chevrolet/model/c10-pickup

Same kit without power assist.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a126-8/overview/make/chevrolet/year/1965/model/c10-pickup

Rich 5150 69
11-16-2012, 02:25 AM
BOH ...never had one on a Chevy, but we have on on a '68 dart, they are bell housing mounted, no issues for what it's worth. As far as the disc brake kits it's seams awful expensive for just calipers rotors. Did you see the post I made on Facebook concerning disc brake upgrades, I'ii copy it to my files in word and post it here tomorrow, you should be able to set yourself up for a couple of hundred using disc's from '88 thru current year modular disc's using factory parts, but you'll need to change out your lower a- arms to c-20 units preferably from 67/68 only because of the shorter bump stops but you can modify them all easily enough. you can run without power booster many have.

Rich 5150 69
11-16-2012, 03:10 AM
Parts Swap:
From '73-'87 you can unbolt the upper and lower control arms with the spindles attached and bolt these pieces onto your existing cross member. (clarification needed on 5-6 lug)
OR
You can re-use your existing upper and lower control arms and replace the upper and lower ball joints with new pieces from the '73-'87 donor truck. (clarification needed on 5-6 lug)

Now, the steering linkage is slightly different for the 1966 to 1973/1987
models ( specifically the tie rod diameters ). There are a few different ways one can approach this situation, 1: purchase the adapter sleeve that mates your original inner tie rod to the later model outer tie rod - cost for adapters about 50 bucks , 2: remove the threads from the larger, newer model tie rod and retap the tie rod with a left hand die to match the original older tie rod - cost for die about 30+ bucks plus the cost of the newer style tie rods , OR - drumroll please - 3: you can re-use the steering linkage from the donor truck, drill two new holes to mount the idler arm to the frame and bolt the whole assembley into your truck! I did this since the steering linkage in the donor truck had been recently replaced and it is MUCH beefier than the original 1966 parts. It will bolt to the existing pitman arm. Once completed you will need to have the alignment re-done.

Option 1:
You need 73-87 3/4-1 ton lower control arms to do a 6 lug disc brake swap with stock 88-98 truck parts. (needs to be verified)

Option 2:
The '88 spindle, rotor, calipers, and ball joints were used in the swap, but you need a 3/4 ton '68(other years see below) a-arm instead of the 1/2 ton one. The bottom '88 balljoint fits into the '68 a-arm, and the top '88 ball joint fits on the '68 a-arm. The top '88 ball joint you half to grind the rivets off of the 88 a-arm and then bolt it to the '68 a-arm. For steering linkage keep the 1968 1/2 ton intermediate shaft, 1988 1/2 ton tie rods, with the inner tie rod end changed to part#: MOOG ES2020. (done by dream68 on a '68 but should work on these years as well)

I used a 1990 chevy front end/parts that had 5 lug 1.25" thick rotors and went to AutoZone and bought new factory 6 lug 1.25" thick rotors and bolted them on. (thanks firstgen)

Potentially the following spindles, rotors, caliper and ball joints can be used
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 88 2500 Series; 4x2
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 88-91 1500 Series; 4x2, 1-1/4" thick rotor
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 89-91 2500 Series; VIN models "C/K", 4x2, 6 bolt wheel
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 92-98 1500 Series; 4x2
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 92-98 2500 Series; 4x2, 6 bolt wheel
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 99 1500 Series; exc. Silverado; 4x2
CHEVROLET VAN 96-99 1500 Series
CHEVROLET VAN 96-99 2500 Series; 7300 lb. GVW
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 88 2500 Series; VIN models "C/K", 4x2
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 88-91 1500 Series; 4x2, 1-1/4" thick rotor
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 89-91 2500 Series; VIN models "C/K", 4x2, 6 bolt wheel
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 92-98 1500 Series; 4x2
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 92-98 2500 Series; 4x2, 6 bolt wheel
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 99 1500 Series; old style (flat, pull-up outside door handle), 4x2
GMC VAN 96-99 1500 Series
GMC VAN 96-99 2500 Series; 7300 lb. GVW
SUBURBAN 92 1500 Series; 4x2
SUBURBAN 93-96 1500 Series; 4x2, vacuum brake booster
SUBURBAN 97-99 1500 Series; 4x2, gas
TAHOE/YUKON 95-99 4x2

Potentially the following low control arms may work (thanks jjr)
For lower control arm: the 67-70 3/4 lower arm can come from the following:
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 68-70 20 Series
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 68-70 30 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 67-70 20 Series
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 67-70 30 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
CHEVROLET VAN 71 30 Series; drum brake
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 68-70 2500 Series
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 68-70 3500 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 67-70 2500 Series
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 67-70 3500 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
GMC VAN 71 3500 Series; drum brake
SUBURBAN 67-70 20 Series
SUBURBAN 67-70 2500 Series

If the 71-up 3/4 ton lower control arm can work they can come from the following:
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 71-72 30 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 71-89 20 Series
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 73-78 30 Series; non-removable carrier
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 79-84 30 Series; drum rear brakes, sgl. rear wheels
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 85-92 30 Series; exc. hvy. duty front susp.; drum rear brakes, sgl. rear wheels
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 93 30 Series; exc. hvy. duty front susp.; drum rear brakes, sgl. rear wheels, w/o 9L6 brakes
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 71-72 30 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 71-88 20 Series
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 73-80 30 Series
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 81-88 30 Series; std. duty susp.
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 89-91 2500 Series; VIN models "R/V"
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 89-91 3500 Series; VIN models "R/V", std. duty susp.
CHEVROLET VAN 72-78 30 Series
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 71-72 3500 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 71-89 2500 Series
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 73-78 3500 Series; non-removable carrier
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 79-84 3500 Series; drum rear brakes, sgl. rear wheels
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 85-92 3500 Series; exc. hvy. duty front susp.; drum rear brakes, sgl. rear wheels
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 93 3500 Series; exc. hvy. duty front susp.; drum rear brakes, sgl. rear wheels, w/o 9L6 brakes
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 71-72 3500 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 71-87 2500 Series
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 73-80 3500 Series
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 81-87 3500 Series; std. duty susp.
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 88-91 3500 Series; VIN models "R/V", std. duty susp.
GMC VAN 72-78 3500 Series
SUBURBAN 71-88 20 Series
SUBURBAN 71-91 2500 Series

NOTE: The steer stops are different on the older arms(same deal as the 1/2 tons, it will shorten the turning radius), & will require a little grinding on the stops on the spindles to straighten it up. (thanks crazy longhorn)

Option 2:
I used a 1990 chevy front end/parts that had 5 lug 1.25" thick rotors and went to AutoZone and bought new factory 6 lug 1.25" thick rotors and bolted them on. (thanks firstgen)
Basically these are the parts I used:

1968 C20 lower control arms
1990 3/4 ton Light Duty 2X4 must have (1.25" rotors) spindles
1990 1.25" thick 6 lug rotors
1990 calipers off same truck
1990 upper and lower ball joints
1990 outer tie rods
inner tie rods MOOG part #ES2020RL
1990 style tie rod coupler

The only catch is to cut 3/4" off each end of both tie rods on each side of the truck so you can have enough room to align the truck. Well at least I had to since mine is lowered 4" in the front.

The front end I bought off the 1990 truck was 5 lug. All I did was went and bought the 6 lug rotors and bolted them on. If you wanted to stay with the 5 lug, you'd save yourself about $120 bucks.

After everything is done, you will now have 14mm studs on the front. I fixed this by drilling my rear axles and pressing in 14mm studs in the rear also but you wouldn't have to do this... I plan on going to a rear disc setup using a floating rotor design and so this helps that plan also...

I used the rubber lines off the 1990 truck and used the factory mount from the 1990 to secure the line to the frame.

Option 2: (done by captainfab)
Spindles from any '88-'98 1/2 ton or light 3/4 ton 2wd pickup or suburban. Rotors from a 7200# GVW 3/4ton from '88-'98 (for some reason there is one part # for '88 & '89 and another for '90-'94. There are only minor differences between the two) I bought the one for the '90-'94 which is Raybestos #56915RGS. The ball joints you need to use are the ones for the '88-'98 spindles. The uppers will fit '63-'87 1/2 ton upper a-arms. The lowers will fit '69-'87 3/4 ton lower a-arms. The '69-'72 are prefered because of the shorter bump stop bracket. The newer ones could be easily modified. For steering you will need to use the '88-'98 outter tierod ends and the adjuster sleeves with ES2020L (ES2020RL?) inner tierod ends to mate up with the drag link. The calipers to use are the '88-'98 ones. Other than some minor things and replacement parts like bearings and seals, etc, I think that's about it.

Blackedoutharley
11-16-2012, 03:34 AM
Yeah it is a bit pricey but what caught my eye was that it still uses the factory spindles and suspension. Just remove the backing plates and install their kit.
Being that I just rebuilt my entire front suspension I am not willing to go changing more parts and frankly disc brakes are down the road a bit for me anyways.

I am sure that when I do swap over I will just source a set of '73 - '87 spindles to do the swap.

I need to see if one of my friends has a starter I can mock up while my engine is still on the stand. I really want to get away from the O.E.M style starter if possible.

Oh ***! Do you have a '68 Dart?

I have had a weakness for A bodies for many years.

Blackedoutharley
11-16-2012, 03:35 AM
Did a priest set up the word filter here?

I haven't used any curse words and I am still being filtered!

?????

Az Geezer
11-16-2012, 05:26 AM
I'll jump in here..........I did a 73 Dart. Got mad when I read a lease my business had on a Cavelier, It had 72,000 miles in under 30 months, and I read the lease (about time!) and saw where I'd be penalized 10 cents a mile for everything over 48K on a 4 year lease. Bought out the lease and sold the car. Bought the 73 Dart for 500. Rebuilt the 318, had the seat reupholstered, fixed the AC, and started driving it. Paint by House of Earl (Earl Schieb), and some Mopar Cop Wheels, dual Exhaust, and I was stylin', Ha Drove that car for 150,000 miles and was gonna need a fresh motor. I was tired of the car and just drove it to Pomona and sold it. My last Mopar.

ROYO
11-16-2012, 07:23 PM
Did a priest set up the word filter here?

I haven't used any curse words and I am still being filtered!

?????
Everything has to stay kid friendly. But if your having a problem pm Mark

GMCDAC
11-17-2012, 01:00 AM
This site won't let you say *** but you can beat it like this G-O-D!

OLD 9
11-17-2012, 01:10 AM
Can't say **** Cepek either

http://www.67-72chevyboard.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2013&highlight=cepek

Blackedoutharley
11-17-2012, 02:29 AM
I understand the kit friendly part (not that I would allow kids on here, they spend too much time texting and playing games on the computer now a days as it is) but I can't even type about the brass pet chickens I installed as drains in the bottom of my new block.

LOL!

Lakeroadster
11-17-2012, 09:40 AM
:yes: As with many things we deal with today it seems as a society we have to dumb things down to the lowest denominators in our society to protect innocents.

Such is life..

As opposed to over on the H.A.M.B. where dealing with the lunatic fringe is the norm.... :eek:

Rich 5150 69
11-17-2012, 04:04 PM
I understand the kit friendly part (not that I would allow kids on here, they spend too much time texting and playing games on the computer now a days as it is) but I can't even type about the brass pet chickens I installed as drains in the bottom of my new block.

LOL!

Brass Pet Chickens......thats a first...:sSig_rofl:

:yes: As with many things we deal with today it seems as a society we have to dumb things down to the lowest denominators in our society to protect innocents.

Such is life..

As opposed to over on the H.A.M.B. where dealing with the lunatic fringe is the norm.... :eek:

I believe it is to protect the dumb....you can`t fix stupid.....! :grin:

Rich 5150 69
11-17-2012, 04:32 PM
Oh ***! Do you have a '68 Dart?

I have had a weakness for A bodies for many years.

`68 270 HDT ...370 C.I. 202-J heads, mopar cam, 650 holley on LD 340 intake, mopar headers, HEI converted Mopar Dizzy, built 904, 323 suregrip...

Blackedoutharley
11-17-2012, 05:33 PM
`68 270 HDT ...370 C.I. 202-J heads, mopar cam, 650 holley on LD 340 intake, mopar headers, HEI converted Mopar Dizzy, built 904, 323 suregrip...

I am quite fond of the '67-'69 Darts and '73-'76 Duster's. Still have the uber rare (= odd) '73 'convertriple' Duster I built for my first wife (kept the kid and the car!). Its up at my sisters house outside of Redding. I had traded it to her husband years ago and he ended up disassembling the thing.
Once the truck is done I will drag it down here and put it back together.
It is beyond the point of a correct restoration as far as interior but I was tossing around the idea of mini-tubbing it, cage, twin hair dryers and a Lenco... with license plates of course.



As opposed to over on the H.A.M.B. where dealing with the lunatic fringe is the norm.... :eek:


You want lunatic fringe, spend some time on a forum board related to guns or shooting! LOL

Lakeroadster
11-17-2012, 10:16 PM
You want lunatic fringe, spend some time on a forum board related to guns or shooting! LOL

I think I would file that under "It's all Good". Clingin' to guns, G0d and country is what made this the land of the free, home of the brave. Well at least that is what we were taught in public schooling, way back in the 60's and 70's.

enigma
11-19-2012, 06:16 PM
very nice car!!!!! as far as teaching things are much different now in school

Blackedoutharley
05-11-2014, 03:21 PM
Update!

I haven't disappeared and I haven't given up on my truck. I continue to buy stuff for it and really have all the parts to complete it except a power steering pump which I should have next week. It will be going to a friends shop for reassembly and to have the floor boards replaced. Completion date is end of July.

Since the last update I have been quite busy with work and found a shiny penny to rub on for awhile.

I bought this in January from one of my customers...
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n564/JayPostlethwait/Disco%20Chicken/935189_695266260495102_1177405926_n_zpsfd89c401.jp g (http://s1140.photobucket.com/user/JayPostlethwait/media/Disco%20Chicken/935189_695266260495102_1177405926_n_zpsfd89c401.jp g.html)

Got it home and gave it several baths...
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n564/JayPostlethwait/Disco%20Chicken/1511548_678252398863155_1233261893_n_zps92c9ea6a.j pg (http://s1140.photobucket.com/user/JayPostlethwait/media/Disco%20Chicken/1511548_678252398863155_1233261893_n_zps92c9ea6a.j pg.html)

Then had it buffed (paint is hammered but its a good "20 footer" and straight as an arrow!)
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n564/JayPostlethwait/Disco%20Chicken/1506395_695104600511268_938739255_n_zpsc3cd6a4d.jp g (http://s1140.photobucket.com/user/JayPostlethwait/media/Disco%20Chicken/1506395_695104600511268_938739255_n_zpsc3cd6a4d.jp g.html)

Then while tearing it apart for new interior and carpet I found this!
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n564/JayPostlethwait/Disco%20Chicken/10255294_724938030861258_1682618469556597732_n_zps a2f59177.jpg (http://s1140.photobucket.com/user/JayPostlethwait/media/Disco%20Chicken/10255294_724938030861258_1682618469556597732_n_zps a2f59177.jpg.html)

I plan on driving this trough the summer and then it will go up for sale probably.
1975 Formula 350 Firebird. 4spd. pwr windows, tilt, posi, rear defrost, a/c,

Chicago5
05-11-2014, 04:06 PM
Oh man! Did you use rubbing compound or wax or what? LOVE that car. I just can't get over how good it looks from only buffing.

Lakeroadster
05-11-2014, 06:18 PM
Awesome Firebird. Are the rear quarters stock or have the wheel openings been modified? I don't recall them being that prominent.

Blackedoutharley
05-11-2014, 08:26 PM
That was done with rubbing compound and a buffer Chicago. Its not the original paint as the car was originally blue but whoever painted it went through the trouble to do it correctly and painted the door jams, trunk etc.
The body is super, super straight and unlike most F bodies, the doors close properly too; even better than the black one in my garage.

Body is completely stock and unmolested... also not rotted out either which is rare from a car that originally came from Missouri.

This car was made in the 2nd week of June '75 in Norwood Ohio and has a June '75 Missouri inspection sticker on the windshield. For whatever reason California says it was originally registered here in '75 but you couldn't get a 4 speed car here because of the emissions. This one is also missing a smog pump and has dual exhaust with no cats but does have an egr valve.

I put it on the dyno and with zero tuning and 18:1 a/f ratio it made 199hp and 288 tq at the tires but the car was only rated for 175hp when new.

Go figure!

Az Geezer
05-12-2014, 08:36 AM
That's a nice Firebird..........keep it!

Blackedoutharley
05-13-2014, 03:21 AM
I might but I think the wife is getting jealous... so much so that I am doing a complete suspension rebuild on hers in the next week.

I flushed the radiator on the orange one and that brought out some issues with the radiator... mainly that I flushed out whatever it was that was preventing it from leaking.
After getting several quotes of $350-$400 and up to re-core the radiator I decided to buy a new Champion aluminum version for the wifes car and will have her old one boiled out and will stick it in the orange car (or the "Disco Chicken" as we have lovingly named it.)
Interior will be done this week and I plan on flogging the snot out of it this summer and possibly beyond.
Anybody have a trick for draining the transmission? Doesn't have a drain plug.

BAGGED70C-10
05-13-2014, 03:41 AM
Very clean find.. Pictures Mas pictures..lol

No drain, Big can.

Lakeroadster
05-13-2014, 08:50 PM
How much was that coin worth?

As for draining... How about placing a drain pan under the bottom radiator hose and stick a big ole knife through that bottom radiator hose?

Blackedoutharley
05-16-2014, 12:32 AM
No, I mean draining the transmission so I can fill it with fresh gear oil. I don't think I have ever had a manual trans that didn't have a drain plug.

Lakeroadster
05-16-2014, 07:43 AM
No, I mean draining the transmission so I can fill it with fresh gear oil. I don't think I have ever had a manual trans that didn't have a drain plug.

About a year ago I installed a rear u-joint and transmission rear lip seal on my C10. My truck has a Muncie M-21 4-speed and doesn't have a drain for the tranny fluid, I gravity syphoned out the lube overnight using a piece of very flexible vacuum hose.

One fella said to unbolt the trans from the motor, rotate it & drain it via the fill plug... no thanks

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/Engine%20and%20Driveline/Driveshaft%20and%20Transmission%20Seal/DSCF2040_zps86d74784.jpg

Haus
05-16-2014, 10:11 AM
Take a look at those cherry bombs !

Markeb01
05-18-2014, 02:06 PM
Unbelievable how much can be achieved with just some elbow grease. If the trans is a 350, the best solution I ever found was to break all the bolts loose, then keep lowering the lowest rear corner while keeping the opposite front corner just a couple turns loose. Eventually the pan will come down far enough to "pour" out most of fluid from the lowest corner instead of from everywhere at the same time. A drain plug is much nicer, but this technique kept my changes much cleaner.

Last time I checked the cheap chromed pans that included a drain plug didn't cost that much more than buying one of the kits for drilling and installing a new plug in the old pan.

Lakeroadster
05-18-2014, 04:32 PM
Mark, the disco chicken is a stick shift, not a hydramatic

Disco Chicken (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6OPws_NT1U)

Markeb01
05-18-2014, 06:16 PM
Wow, I missed that completely. Until reading your story, I've never encountered a stick without a drain plug!

Blackedoutharley
05-19-2014, 02:49 AM
Disco Chicken (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6OPws_NT1U)

OMG That is hilarious!!!!!!!!!!

Blackedoutharley
09-21-2015, 06:53 AM
Still alive!!!!!!!!!

Disco Chicken went to a new home in March and the truck now runs and is in the final stages of this part. Getting the type II power steering brackets to make this work has been a chore.

New tires mounted. Brakes bled and I have driven it around the neighbor hood a bit.

More pics soon.

BAGGED70C-10
09-22-2015, 02:30 AM
Hey, On your Mustang in the one pic. What size of tires and wheels are you running and what is the backspacing?

Blackedoutharley
09-24-2015, 04:12 AM
Mustang?

BAGGED70C-10
10-01-2015, 05:20 PM
Mustang?

Blue Mustang sitting alongside the T/A inside the building.

Blackedoutharley
10-14-2015, 03:36 AM
Good eye!

that is a friends '65.... the rear tires are M/T 275's but I will have to find out the specs on the wheels... they are a tight fit.

Car has a late model Coyote with twin hair dryers on it.... super crazy car.

BAGGED70C-10
10-15-2015, 12:04 AM
Good eye!

that is a friends '65.... the rear tires are M/T 275's but I will have to find out the specs on the wheels... they are a tight fit.

Car has a late model Coyote with twin hair dryers on it.... super crazy car.

Sounds like a bullet.. That's good size rear tires. I'm building a 65 and I've been told they don't have much room and in looking at them I have to agree.. Did he do a Mini Tub?
Thanks for checking on them for me. :)