PDA

View Full Version : Pics of my`64 Chevy Pickup


Rich 5150 69
01-12-2012, 12:05 PM
Pretty much how it was all put together in `93, but being used as a daily driver sinse then has pretty much abused everything, time for a makeover...Very tired 350/350/373 posi, looking at a Gen four 396 to do a mild build, and up date the worn torn interior, just pickup a set of seats and consol from `05 siverado have to move tank to rear to install consol/jump seat, installed finger pulls inplace of door handles need to rebuild column as the tilt seems to be getting a little loose. Any and all advise is welcome. Its never ending.....:eek:

ROYO
01-12-2012, 12:30 PM
My advice is





just give it to me and i will drive the wheels off it lol

Rich 5150 69
01-12-2012, 12:36 PM
The wife would agree to that .....:no:

Maui
01-12-2012, 02:50 PM
Nice old truck and Welcome from North Idaho!

Chicago5
01-12-2012, 04:56 PM
Oh man. Now I'm having those bad urges to scrape and steal and sell stuff to get my hands on a ride like that. Love it!

pxwolvie
01-12-2012, 09:04 PM
Sweet ride you have there, looking forward to the progress that you have planned for that baby.

Az Geezer
01-13-2012, 09:29 AM
Love your truck! I see by the plate that you're in Cali. Whereabouts? I see the diamond plate in the bed.......is that over wood? Looks like it holds up well. any issues with that? Are the bed wheel wells stock?.............can you tell I like your a lot?
Bill

OLD 9
01-13-2012, 09:45 AM
Very nice !!!

Rich 5150 69
01-13-2012, 10:38 AM
Love your truck! I see by the plate that you're in Cali. Whereabouts? I see the diamond plate in the bed.......is that over wood? Looks like it holds up well. any issues with that? Are the bed wheel wells stock?.............can you tell I like your a lot?
Bill

Az Geezer.... Sacramento, the bed we did lay marine plywood under it with two coats of sealer...but over time it still degraded, one of the redo`s on the list, stock wheel wells, my approach this time is either glass it or eliminate the wood completely and build a 1/2 imch steel frame for it...have`nt decided yet...as far as the diamond plate it looks as good as the day i put it in, just throw a little soap on it hit it with a nylon bristtle broom and rinse it out, I still do need to change the carriage bolts to stainless...

BAGGED70C-10
01-13-2012, 06:07 PM
Rich, Is your Diamond plate .250? That looks great in there.

Rich 5150 69
01-13-2012, 11:31 PM
I want to say it is, not sure, it was done back in `93 ...

Sport/Truck
01-14-2012, 10:36 AM
Just got back in town and noticed this sweet truck! :grin:
Welcome from New Mexico.
Dean

GMCDAC
01-14-2012, 04:53 PM
Very cool! Gotta love the daily drivers! That's an era when the big back windows were rare just opposite of the next generation of pickups! (except '67 I think?). Thanks for these pics and keep posting more!

Later---DAC

Rich 5150 69
01-15-2012, 02:12 AM
Ok so I decided a few weeks back that I need a new radiator, after calling around locally to get my original recored the cheapest i found was $382. and some change, so I went on line picked one up from Champion ..aluminum 3 row to fit mt truck for $229 delivered to my door....cool, everything fit fine...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=823624&stc=1&d=1320447339

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=823623&stc=1&d=1320447199

Except the rad cap they sent with it says its 13 lb cap but never released or under very high pressure maybe blew out my heater core, so had to get another heater core and replace it today, also changed out the cap as well,,,,,,

GMCDAC
01-16-2012, 10:08 PM
Hey Rich, thanks for this post. I am in the process of new hoses and a thermostat in my '55GMC and was going to put a new 16 lb. cap on it that I have on the shelf to replace a crappy looking 6-8 pounder that's on it. Think I will test them both on a checker we got at work first. If the lower pressure one is still good, I think I'll keep it to not risk blowin' up my heater core!

Later---DAC

Rich 5150 69
01-16-2012, 11:24 PM
Sorry guys didnot relieze the first two pics did`nt take....
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/R515069/DSCF0170.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/R515069/DSCF0169.jpg

Chicago5
01-17-2012, 10:37 AM
Wish I could fit that set up in my S-10! Looks good.

ROYO
01-17-2012, 07:02 PM
Did you say big block? I cant wait to see it.

Rich 5150 69
01-17-2012, 09:09 PM
I`ve got my eye on a 396/402 ...272 casting block and heads are 074 casting, being told that it is a ****** block.....but needs an light boring, a friend of mine, I know that he has had it for about 15 years, he bought for a project years back but ended up with a 454 so it just sits and he`s tired of tripping over it..

Rich 5150 69
02-13-2012, 11:14 PM
Well I was gonna start my gas tank move to the rear but now have to wait just a tad longer, I want to reseal the rain gutter first, as soon as the weather breaks, dug out the sand blaster and I`ve got enough dp90 to recoat the top then I`ll put the seam sealer in. When that is done I`ll put in a 49-52 chevy passenger tank in the rear from Bob Drake which is seling them at $175, for an 18 gallon already set up for fuel injection if I go that route, the standard universal 0 to 90 ohm sensor will bolt up to it and I`ll bring the filler up against the rear left wheel well. Once thats done I can put in the new carpeting and consol...then go the wiring and directional switch. It never ends.:wave2:

Lakeroadster
02-14-2012, 07:00 AM
I know a guy, who knows a guy, who did a 49-52 tank in a '65 C10, heck he even mad some CAD drawings and wrote a "how to" thread... just in case you have any questions... :hatwave: :ohyes:

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/259172/post/new/#NEW

http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/42229/2658293630103882008S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2658293630103882008mXkQko)

http://inlinethumb63.webshots.com/40382/2647191600103882008S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2647191600103882008aycqdi)

http://inlinethumb19.webshots.com/29202/2239963710103882008S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2239963710103882008iixNUE)

http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/38530/2517880320103882008S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2517880320103882008rTZemm)

http://inlinethumb15.webshots.com/44750/2706879580103882008S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2706879580103882008iynVDL)

Rich 5150 69
02-14-2012, 10:50 AM
Thanks again John:wave2:, after we had searched all the alternatives, meaning lower cost and ease of install and compatabity thats the route I`ll take, the other two alternates will work but can`t use the stock gauge, meaning the `70 cuda/Challenger that will fit fine but is 240 ohmns and the mustang tank which is only 16 gallons and 99 ohmn, so I don`t care to use a aftermarket gauge, my next question when you built the top rails for the tank..are they basicly replacing the cross sills in your case....?:grin:http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/bobdrake_2166_33257931

Lakeroadster
02-14-2012, 07:08 PM
, my next question when you built the top rails for the tank..are they basicly replacing the cross sills in your case....?:grin

Rich... you considered using a Mopar or a Ford tank in your classic Chevy! :Groaner: Just kidding. :grin:

The upper supports don't replace the cross sills...

The supports for the tank need to run front to back, not side to side (like bed cross sills) since the top of the tank is ribbed in that direction.

On my truck I raised the top of the tank above the frame by 2" because I didn't want the tank visible from the back of the truck (I notched the cross sill where it goes over the tank).

http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/48322/2846306520103882008S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2846306520103882008ahwNEf)

http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/48904/2612453640103882008S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2612453640103882008bYaKFp)
But the biggest reason I welded the upper supports to the frame was so the tank would be frame mounted instead of bed rail mounted, thus allowing the bed to be removed without any effect on the gas tank.

Another thing to note: The Bob Drake tank has a welded in filler neck. The "Tanks, Inc." 49-52 has a bolt on inlet that is short. Unless you cut "Bob's" inlet down real short you won't be able to install the tank from under the truck.

John

Rich 5150 69
02-14-2012, 09:57 PM
I know about the bottom drop, I`m planning on cutting the tube at the tank and the bead roll it both ends, I want the extra capacity...!

Lakeroadster
02-15-2012, 07:14 AM
Agreed, a couple more gallons is a good thing. FYI: Tanks also carries the extra capacity tank, with the bolted filler neck, for $200.00. Maybe it's just me but from the photo's the Bob Drake tank seems to have a lot of oil canning around the sending unit opening, which the Tanks doesn't. Hard to tell from photos though.
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=249/category_id=63/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd249.htm

http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/50125/2294905300103882008S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2294905300103882008vyZVOm)

Rich 5150 69
02-15-2012, 09:57 AM
Ok...:innocent: they are now offering it, that helps alot......I`m sure they are getting from the same manufacture....sense you can get in plain and stainless already set up for F.I. :grin:

Chicago5
02-15-2012, 11:32 AM
Very nicely done. I seriously considered the tank relocation kit for my '72. When I replace the wood bed and wheel housing I will consider it again. Good job on this.

Az Geezer
02-15-2012, 01:13 PM
I've got a relocated tank in my 71. it's a 21 gallon tank, and with the BB, I need every gallon it'll hold. my filler is mounted at the base of the wheel housing.
Bill

Chicago5
02-16-2012, 11:40 AM
Did you do the change, Bill? I assumed there was the one option for the filler, which is just the bottom of the bed near the rear left side. Don't know where else I'd put I guess.

Az Geezer
02-16-2012, 12:06 PM
You can route the filler anywhere you want, within reason. It's a small, tight area and you don't want to pinch the hose over, or you'll have real issues filling. I went to a marine supply store, looked in their catalog, and picked a filler that had an angle to it, so when mounted in the wheel well, it pointed straight down. I also made sure to put two vents in the tank (don't close one off), so I can fill it on the fast switch on the pump nozzle, instead of the slow side. There's been pictures of the install on here, Ron did them for me, but I can't find them.

Rich 5150 69
02-16-2012, 05:32 PM
The vent will run al the way up the the fill nozzle, plus I`ll put a pig tail vent on the tank...I thnk.

LostMy65
02-18-2012, 01:35 AM
Pretty much how it was all put together in `93, but being used as a daily driver sinse then has pretty much abused everything, time for a makeover...Very tired 350/350/373 posi, looking at a Gen four 396 to do a mild build, and up date the worn torn interior, just pickup a set of seats and consol from `05 siverado have to move tank to rear to install consol/jump seat, installed finger pulls inplace of door handles need to rebuild column as the tilt seems to be getting a little loose. Any and all advise is welcome. Its never ending.....:eek:


http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h378/LostMy65/attachment-75.jpg
As Soon as I saw the above pic you posted, I knew it had to be close to my home town.
I was born and raised in Woodland, Ca.

Rich 5150 69
02-18-2012, 01:55 AM
[IMG]
As Soon as I saw the above pic you posted, I knew it had to be close to my home town.
I was born and raised in Woodland, Ca.

Small world.....did you sign in the new member area, ya, you need to tell your story here, its great:wave2: Glad you joined in, you`ll like it here.:ohyes:

Az Geezer
02-18-2012, 09:07 AM
anyhow.........welcome from AZ

Barn Owl
02-18-2012, 12:43 PM
X2 welcome from San Diego
I have been quietly routing for you since I first heard of your story. Glad you found us.
Mike

Rich 5150 69
03-04-2012, 11:15 AM
Just found some old photos I had my daighter scan in and send them to me, I have an older pc that crashed and can`t get the photos out.:grin: These were taken after I got the slot mags on and all the color sanding done in `93, it looks pretty rough now because I use it all the time.:eek:

Chicago5
03-04-2012, 11:47 AM
Looks awesome with either set of wheels. Lovin' this truck, man!!

GMCDAC
03-05-2012, 09:35 PM
Yeah looks great either way. I really dig ralleys but those slots look cooler yet to me!
Like I said though, I would roll in that truck with either set of wheels!

Rich 5150 69
07-09-2012, 10:37 PM
So I got some work done today on the truck. well actually a part for the truck, my hood is rusted thru on the lower corner valance, so I hunted around for a hood for some time found one on CL for $20 bucks, I then cut out the front valance, now just got to grind thru the spot welds, I cut out thru the areas I don`t need, and will cut my hood out thru the valance itself, then spot weld it back in....I had to go to Harbour Freight ( one day tool store) for a saws all. Had it cut out in 15 minutes, cut the center section out to try and build a cowl hood for it...

Lakeroadster
07-10-2012, 08:15 AM
Quite the endeavor, looking forward to more.

Couple questions:

1.0 Are you planning to build a "real" cowl induction hood with more internal clearance, or a looker?

2.0 How much rise, subtle or extreme?

I always thought it would be cool to graft the cowl induction mechanism off of a Chevelle onto the hood. The visuals of the flappers opening up from inside the cab would be way cool.

I have a few photos I have been collecting of how another fella made his cowl hood, might help get the juices flowin'. Click on the photo for more shots...

http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/49216/2116893840103882008S200x200Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2116893840103882008nxFoXM)http://inlinethumb10.webshots.com/49417/2109215100103882008S200x200Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2109215100103882008WKnUiB)http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/47846/2212939020103882008S200x200Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2212939020103882008yFFglE)

Rich 5150 69
07-10-2012, 09:53 PM
1.0 plans area real deal or I wouldn`t bother, working door and all.

2.0 somewhat subtle, 2.5 max rise at the windshield, 18 inches across, 9 inches each way from center before it rolls off to the sides, I want to actually roll off not a sharp drop, two inches out from windsheild. As it would sit on the actuall `69 cowl hood, just getting my feet wet here, the biggest issue will be how to form the front trying to achieve a compound curve, looks as if I will have to form some bucks from ash or birch I have here and do some hammer forming. Oh why do I do these things......:pray:http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/OLD_SITE/Cars/Bowen69camaro/69camaro-07.jpg

Lakeroadster
07-10-2012, 10:29 PM
Oh why do I do these things......:pray:

:eek: I seem to share this disease. :ssshhh:

All I would ask is that you help me with my therapy sessions by documenting your cowl induction adventure.

Az Geezer
07-10-2012, 11:06 PM
Or we could all just talk about them over some beers...........

Rich 5150 69
07-11-2012, 09:17 AM
Or we could all just talk about them over some beers...........

OH yea, that will work, I`d never get anything done, sinse I retired I can`t seem to get caught up around here, one project just flows into another....:sHa_dielaughing2:

Ragenrat
07-11-2012, 09:46 AM
Sweet !!!
I'd bet if you could just get the supporting angled sheet metal at the edges installed... you could easily form shape those curves with fiberglass.
My son Steve uses fiberglass all the time at work GasGuzzlersGarage.Com I am sure he'd be willing to give a few pointers to get you going if you asked him.
Mark

Rich 5150 69
07-11-2012, 10:15 AM
Sweet !!!
I'd bet if you could just get the supporting angled sheet metal at the edges installed... you could easily form shape those curves with fiberglass.
My son Steve uses fiberglass all the time at work GasGuzzlersGarage.Com I am sure he'd be willing to give a few pointers to get you going if you asked him.
Mark

Mark, I appreciate the offer, and I`m sure I will be asking questions and opinons, but I want to try and keep it all steel..the only issue will be rolling the top roll at the front of the cowl section, I will probably have to cut a relief into it and weld back in, I`m going to start at the back (windsheild ) and go forward......:innocent: Wonder how long this will take,,,,:rolleyes: I`ve already been reading alot here...http://allmetalshaping.com/

GMCDAC
07-11-2012, 08:17 PM
Thanks for the update! Keep em comin!

Rich 5150 69
07-30-2012, 01:05 PM
Here`sa pic of the Brown truck shipment....I seem to get the same guy everytime, he thought it was for the `37 ford...sinse it had Bob Drakes nameplate on the box........til I explaned it to him. Its no differant from Lakeroadster`s, just has fixed lines at the tank.

Lakeroadster
07-30-2012, 07:40 PM
Looks like your planning on working on both ends... cowl hood and rear tank.

You planning on removing the bed to do the tank?

Rich 5150 69
07-31-2012, 09:53 PM
Right now everything is on hold til the hot weather goes away, its 102 here for the last two days, and for the next three days, I`ll see what I can get done in the early morning hours, still working on the front valance to get it stripped of all the unwanted sheet metal then will blast it on the inside and coat it with DP-90, by the way John there are two weep holes in our hoods ( actually four ) the seam on the front valance where it bottoms out at the out---sides has a wall where the hood is pinched and welded there is a weep hole on both sides of that verticle wall on both sides of the hood, never knew it was there until I tore this one apart, its there to relieve the trapped water under the front edge.:ohyes:

Anyways back to the ? I finish the front valance first, then to the tank, the cowl hood is a side project..

Lakeroadster
07-31-2012, 10:38 PM
Rich,

I know what ya mean in regard to the heat. This has been one crazy summer. The heat, forest fires, mud slides and now the trigger happy Joker, I am hoping this summer will be a once in a lifetime deal here in Colorado.

Drain holes in the hood, eh? I learned something today :ohyes:

Could you maybe post up some photos of where those are?

Thanks,

John

Rich 5150 69
08-20-2012, 10:25 AM
Rich,

Drain holes in the hood, eh? I learned something today :ohyes:

Could you maybe post up some photos of where those are?

Thanks,

John

Here`s the shot John lower edge of hood valance, front seam, the factory used a fold over tab to locate the valance then hey are spot welded, so there is a wall between the two haves, if the front half has a blocked hole the water can`t get out.

Rich 5150 69
08-25-2012, 10:25 PM
Yaaa! got the bed off today, so now wifey knows we`re committed right now.....:grin: soaked it down with pinesol and let sit overnight powerwash tomorrow and start the tank mods. Replace shocks, add shock relocators, move mufflers forward about six inches add turn downs to exhaust to drop behind axle, replace axle cover seal and possible yoke seal....Think I will also start adding the hitch mount as well sinse I`m modding the rear crossmember...:ohyes:

Blackedoutharley
08-26-2012, 02:18 AM
Cheap Walmart oven cleaner worked wonders on my front end in case you haven't tried that yet.

Lakeroadster
08-26-2012, 07:54 AM
Looking forward to watching your progress Rich. :wave2:

Rich 5150 69
08-26-2012, 05:10 PM
Most of the cleanup is done, two cans of oven cleaner, some pinesol, a pack of green pads, and a bristle brush, from the dollar store, 5 bucks and my power washer....so on to the mods. thinking I will replace the trailing arm bushings as well, any thoughts on the poly or ureathane vs the old rubber......?:popworm:

Lakeroadster
08-26-2012, 05:53 PM
Rich, I'd stick with the oem rubber bushings.

I used poly bushings on the rear leaf springs on a '72 Nova that I resto-rodded and truly hated the noise they transmitted into the vehicle.

And on my Model T roadster pickup I also used poly bushings on the triabgulated four bar set-up I fabricated... the bushings, IMO, make for a harsher ride.

Unless you're suspension is up to canyon carving, or you have a high HP Hot Rod, the poly bushings truly aren't necessary, IMO.

Lot's of folks like them though.

My 2 cents.......:wave2:

http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/52472/2665385520103882008S500x500Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2665385520103882008AkPINe)

Az Geezer
08-26-2012, 08:36 PM
This old guy is all done with poly bushings.........I'm not into racing my stuff any more, I'm just gonna be an old, fat guy cruizin' and stylin'. Bonnie HATES the rough ride poly kits put in everything I've put them in. No autocross, no quarter mile, no nothing like that. Soft and comfortable cruizin' for us from now on. Looking forward to having my girlfriend by my side, cruizin..........like last night when we took my truck up to my daughter, son-in-law and grandson's house for the Fantasy Football draft party. Goin' soft on you guys, but it's ok with us!
Bill

enigma
08-26-2012, 09:58 PM
soft is goooooood

Chicago5
08-27-2012, 10:53 AM
If this is what we call "soft", I'm looking forward to it. Besides, you've earned soft...

GMCDAC
08-27-2012, 07:14 PM
I have always used rubber bushings on street vehicles. Poly bushings have a tendancy to squeak badly too besides transmitting more shock and vibration into the car. Keep us posted on your progress, Rich!

Later---DAC

Rich 5150 69
08-27-2012, 11:49 PM
I`ll get more pics tomorrow, worked on it til dark, crossmembers out frame rails trimmed, tank fits like a glove, I had reliezed as I was fitting it in if I had moved it back just a quarter of an inch that it will sit down far enough that I will not have to trim the bed sill like I thought I was...cool, notched the left rail at the top for the filler and vent tube, I will start the welding tomorrow to reinforce the top rail, need to pick up a 34 x 4 inch channel for the rear crossmember replacement, need to get 10 foot of steel 3/8 fuel line and the flared tank adapter...and another thing I will have to do is change out the rear springs, I`m looking at the heavy duty 4 inch drop springs from CPP, mine wre aquired in a trade for some parts I had, so there was no cost, they are CPP 5 inch drop, but they are too low now let alone put another 120 lbs in gas back there...

Blackedoutharley
08-28-2012, 01:20 AM
Poly bushings in control arms equals all the bad things others have said from my past experience. I did install them in the panhard bar and trailing arms though and my mind tells me that along with the better shocks, springs and a sway bar it helped eliminate the "pogo stick" wandering effect on the rear.
YMMV

Lakeroadster
08-28-2012, 07:59 AM
.... change out the rear springs, I`m looking at the heavy duty 4 inch drop springs from CPP, mine were aquired in a trade for some parts I had, so there was no cost, they are CPP 5 inch drop, but they are too low now let alone put another 120 lbs in gas back there...

Have you thought about putting a 1 inch spacer on the bottom, between the frame and the spring? Then the 5 inch drop spring would be the same as a 4 inch... :yes:

Looking forward to seeing photo's. Are you planning on keeping the rear bumper?

Rich 5150 69
08-28-2012, 09:59 AM
Have you thought about putting a 1 inch spacer on the bottom, between the frame and the spring? Then the 5 inch drop spring would be the same as a 4 inch... :yes:

Looking forward to seeing photo's. Are you planning on keeping the rear bumper?

ya,,,already have a one inch spacer before I did this...thats why I was considering the Heavy duty 4 inch drop springs, yes I will keep the bumper..one thing that bugs me, we have 4 bed sills and one bed stiffner in front off the axle just before the frame rise, why don`t they have one as the frame drops in the back...thnking I may build one, that would help with my diamond plate...I woke up an hour ago with that on my mind, its just getting light here at 6:45 am:goodmorning:...:rolleyes: Need to get to the steel surplus house and get some...2 inch channel short piece and 4 inch...36 long, I did consider the crossmember I cut out, but it just won`t work without looking cheesey. Also decided to run the inlet to the wheel well back side...I think. As I was working on it yesterday I had it backed in the side of the garage, I started sweeping up some of the mess ( still not done got side tracked ) noted that I had a valdeze oil spill comming out of the tranny, hopefully pan gasket, something else to attend to.....:fight:

Rich 5150 69
08-28-2012, 11:25 AM
After taking pics this morning ...that stupid crossmember that the factory offsets to triangulate the frame makes me nuts, looks as if everything is off. I measured diagonally just about everything and it all comes out the same...:cool:

Lakeroadster
08-28-2012, 08:56 PM
:yes: Now that's a thing of beauty! :yes:

I agree, the stock crossmember that's not square... what were they thinking?

Who did you buy your tank from?

John

Rich 5150 69
08-28-2012, 10:38 PM
:yes: Now that's a thing of beauty! :yes:

I agree, the stock crossmember that's not square... what were they thinking?

Who did you buy your tank from?

John

Bob Drake, with sender it was 170.....on sale.

Rich 5150 69
08-28-2012, 11:11 PM
I picked up a piece of 2x4 seamless stock for the rear crossmember, need to cut to length tomorrow, I will take a 1/8 th cut off of each side of the tube ( meaning parallel along its length last three inches of each end ) top and bottom to compress its thickness overall to slide it into the frame and reweld the cuts from the inside, I will have to notch the center of each end for access for my bumper brackets, it will bolt in from the bottom and bolt in in from the top last two bed frame mounts.

Rich 5150 69
08-30-2012, 11:13 AM
I`ve just about got the rear crossmember fitted, it got too hot too quick yesterday, and I`ve started rethinking the frame rail at the side for the filler tube and I don`t like it, soooo I`m going to cut it all out and redo it.

Az Geezer
08-30-2012, 01:02 PM
Rich, have you thought about reinforcing the frame cut you made for the filler? You know, from round stock like they do for a C notch? I kinda like what you've done so far. Where are you putting the actual filler? On a step, you're going to be looking at the backside of the fender?
On my fleetside (71), I have the filler at the bottom of the inner fender, works well, fills on any notch on the pump. I learned the hard way, you've got to have them vented well to be able to do that.
Bill

Rich 5150 69
08-30-2012, 05:34 PM
Well there`s no lack of heat here....mann I wish it would cool off, if there was just a little breeze would help,,,anyways just a quick update, I pulled out of the original work and cut it all out, here`s the new piece, just got to weld it in, the tank nozzel and vent I`ll trim down to inside the frame, soft hose will run thru frame. If I`d pay attention to what I was doing there was a one inch hole in that same spot, all I would have had to do was open it up to 1.5 inches...DUH.....:rolleyes: anyways, not sure yet if I`m running the filler to the inside bed wall or wheel well back side, still pondering the issue.

Az Geezer
08-30-2012, 06:02 PM
One problem I remember having was that the filler and cap was one diameter, the filler at the tank was another. You may want to watch that as you plan the set up. I wound up buying two different sizes of filler hose, and clamping the smaller inside the bigger one. That stuff isn't REAL flexible.

Rich 5150 69
08-30-2012, 06:15 PM
I plan on scoping out the Pic and Pull to see whats out there, a lot to choose from. I don`t guess there`s a big rush on filler tubes..:giggle:
I did a quick google on a while back and it was mind boggleing.

Rich 5150 69
08-30-2012, 10:10 PM
So I burned the new piece in, tomorrow finish up the crossmember as a bolt in, notch it for bumper brackets, put the tank straps on, get fuel line, look around for filler and where to mount...getting closer...:yes:

BAGGED70C-10
08-31-2012, 12:54 AM
Other thing you can do with two seperate size hoses is have a muffler shop stretch one half of a piece of exhaust pipe to adapt the two hoses together.

Lakeroadster
08-31-2012, 06:45 AM
Rich,

Looking good. Having a bit of heat there..... you too? We on average have 30 days over 90 degrees up here. We've doubled that this year. La Nino, El Nina, whatever it is I am wishing it would go the "El" back to where is came from! :Groaner:

Filler Hoses: Bob Drake makes this trick one.

"2in. I.D. x 12in. total length, easy to cut shorter. Very flexible for accommodating filler pipe up to 2½in. O.D., Best new product. Awarded by: National Street Rod Association. "

http://www.bobdrake.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=HR-9047
EDIT: NEVERMIND!!! >>> Upon further investigation it appears to be an inferior part... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=626416

Probably due to ethanol embrittlement. Bummer!

Az Geezer
08-31-2012, 08:19 AM
Other thing you can do with two seperate size hoses is have a muffler shop stretch one half of a piece of exhaust pipe to adapt the two hoses together.

That may work in some cases, but I found I needed some flexibility to get around the frame and stuff. It might have been easier with the bed off.

Rich 5150 69
08-31-2012, 09:56 AM
Rich,

Looking good. Having a bit of heat there..... you too? We on average have 30 days over 90 degrees up here. We've doubled that this year. La Nino, El Nina, whatever it is I am wishing it would go the "El" back to where is came from! :Groaner:

Filler Hoses: Bob Drake makes this trick one.

"2in. I.D. x 12in. total length, easy to cut shorter. Very flexible for accommodating filler pipe up to 2½in. O.D., Best new product. Awarded by: National Street Rod Association. "

http://www.bobdrake.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=HR-9047
EDIT: NEVERMIND!!! >>> Upon further investigation it appears to be an inferior part... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=626416

Probably due to ethanol embrittlement. Bummer!

Thanks John for the update, shame we getting all the crap, I`ll try and stay with the gates yellow stripe fuel hose for the connections, the rest will be steel. I`ve helped several friends with older holleys over the past that have had over running floats due to the needle seat failure due to the gas.....

Lakeroadster
08-31-2012, 09:01 PM
....already have a one inch spacer before I did this...

Could you post a picture of that spacer? I've been thinking about a bit more ole school rake on my truck.

I`ve helped several friends with older holleys over the past that have had over running floats due to the needle seat failure due to the gas.....

I had that problem last year with my Model T RPU. The secondary needle valve was stuck partially open, and flooded the rear 4 cylinders.

:soapbox: If we could get all, and I mean all, the subsidies thrown out ( ethanol, wind, solar... ) ethanol would fail, and we would be back to 100% "non ethanol blended" fuels. At which point farmers would have more economical corn prices to feed their cattle. Paying for some politicians shenanigans, buying votes, really chaps my six.

Ahh, I feel better now. It's been a rough week for ye ole Lakeroadster :urkidding:.

Az Geezer
08-31-2012, 10:07 PM
Couldn't agree with you more. Almost no corn crop this year, but they're making fuel.......

Rich 5150 69
08-31-2012, 10:12 PM
Could you post a picture of that spacer? I've been thinking about a bit more ole school rake on my truck.

:.

They were 4x4 quarter inch steel plate that I had bought for another project from the same steel surplus store a couple of years back, I just drilled a hole dead center and placed them two on top of the spring and two on the bottom and ran the bolt back thru, and tacked them together with the mig, but not to the truck, they haven`t moved so they must be tight. I`m looking at trying to find a filler from a 73 to 77 dodge pu, the filler would be just right for the back side of the wheel well, also picked up a pice of tube to weld on the end of the filler if needed for a reducer to the tank size so I`ll have only one hose size. Filler here..
http://www.fillernecksupply.com/servlet/the-901/1973-73-1974-74/Detail

Rich 5150 69
09-01-2012, 12:49 PM
Pics of spacers. I think its actually better..now it has a platform to sit on as opposed to just sitting on the trailing arm.:wave2:

Rich 5150 69
09-07-2012, 02:33 AM
Wifey and I had been gone for a couple days visiting family, so now we`re back and I can get the truck done, I`ve also decided to do the rear sway bar while the bed is off, something else to add to the list...

Lakeroadster
09-07-2012, 07:01 AM
Rich,

I was going to replace the sway bar with an adjustable unit but discovered on my old warhorse that the rear tires were centered after I lowered it, therefore no need for the adjustable unit.

It's kind of a mystery why that is, cause the driveshaft is not centered in the trailing arm crossmember.

Anyhoo, just wanted to mention that to ya.

John

Rich 5150 69
09-07-2012, 09:05 AM
I`m talking swaybar, not track bar, my track bar is adjustable, its been on there for about five years..I picked up a sway bar, 1.18 thickness at a flea market, its never been on a vehicle, still has the paper stock number on it, I think it will mount under the crossmember just behing the rear axle, the end links I`ll tie to the rear axle via 3.5 muffler clamps and four inch end links..

Lakeroadster
09-07-2012, 08:50 PM
Rich,

I stand corrected.. sway bar.. track bar.. two usefull items, hardly interchangeable!

On my old warhorse I have no sway bars... but I am thinking I should!

John

Rich 5150 69
09-07-2012, 10:42 PM
Your driveshaft will never be centered as your pinion gear is offset by design, this to make the universals work, if everything was centered they wouldn`t ( needle bearings ) rotate in their cups and create flat spots and premature failure....There are some rod builders that will center the drive shaft in a build but then the pumkin is offset visually...6 of one or half dozen of another..

Blackedoutharley
09-08-2012, 06:36 PM
I have sway bars on both ends of my truck; the rear one, along with springs and good shocks, made a huge difference!

Rich 5150 69
09-11-2012, 11:49 AM
Well getting there, too many things going on to get anything done...anyways tank area is done, setting up for rear sway bar install, I`ve looked at many threads, pics and webs devoted to sway bars....so it looks as if this install will be good to go, here`s a few pics with it tied into place.... final adjustment of end links will happen after I reinstall bed at ride height, I will also be changing rear springs to the Heavy Duty 4 inch drop springs from CPP.:yes:

Lakeroadster
09-11-2012, 08:22 PM
Looking good Rich. Amazing how nice the install looks, and what great shape the frame and suspension appear to be.

A couple questions:


Are you planning to use tank straps and if so what will you use across the top to secure the tank?

What kind of brackets are used to fasten the sway bar to the rear axle?


John

Rich 5150 69
09-12-2012, 09:11 AM
Thanks John its going slow though, the tanks straps will be installed, also using one inch by 1/8 th inch steel straps for the top of the tank, although I probably wouldn`t need to as the bed rail just barely touches the top of the tank without the bed cushings....what do you think....?, the swaybar I`m building some 1.5 pillow blocks for the frame to clear the fuel outlet port, and I`ll use two...three inch exhaust clamps on the axle ends as a basis for the end links, just started cutting the plates to weld to the base part of the clamp to which the end link will bolt too...

Lakeroadster
09-12-2012, 09:55 PM
You'll need something structurally sturdy on the top for sure. The tank straps on the bottom push the tank upwards tight against whatevers above it.

The tank itself is set up to have something that runs front to back, not side to side, up on top to give even support in the flat reveal areas on the tank. Did your truck have spacers between the frame and the bed cross rails?

Here's what I am thinking.... lay a straight edge across the frame and measure the distance from the straight edge to the top of the tank, in the flat reveals that run front to back. Add that distance to whatever the frame spacer thickness was. Now bolt something of similar thickness to the bed cross rails at the correct spacing, lets call them the upper tank support bars. Then when you tighten the lower bed straps it will secure the tank against the upper tank support bars.

Whatever you use on the top be sure to use some sort of frame webbing or rubber cushioning material between it and the tank. Well, at least that's what I did. I actually used the webbing for cushioning on the top and bottom.

Make any sense? :rolleyes:

Blackedoutharley
09-13-2012, 03:40 PM
Rich, you had mentioned elsewhere that you're running a Champion radiator in your truck. I think you said it was a 3 row (part # CC284)... any issues or feedback? Any reason to spend the extra money on their 4 row version?
Thanks.

Rich 5150 69
09-13-2012, 04:48 PM
Rich, you had mentioned elsewhere that you're running a Champion radiator in your truck. I think you said it was a 3 row (part # CC284)... any issues or feedback? Any reason to spend the extra money on their 4 row version?
Thanks.

Well lets see, mild build 350 with shroud, 373 gears, runs at 180 even in 105 ambient temp at 65, so in my opinion the three row is plenty....but its your call though...

Blackedoutharley
09-13-2012, 05:44 PM
I was thinking the 3 row would be plenty.

Rich 5150 69
09-14-2012, 11:00 AM
I was thinking the 3 row would be plenty.

One word of caution, donot use their rad cap, it says its a 13lb, but it is considerbly higher, mine blew out my heater core the first day...not to say the heater core wasn`t bad but it was only 6 years old, always had antifreeze in the system..but it could have been flawed I guess. I know I could barely open the cap up with my thumbs by pressing on the spring, and I don`t consider myself to be a light weight.:giggle:

Rich 5150 69
09-14-2012, 03:35 PM
Swaybar links I think I have figured out....still need to make up the left side a make the pllow blocks for the frame rails due to the rivets in the frame I can notch the blocks over them, plus I need them a tad lower for access to the tank output line.....any input would be appreciated good or bad. These were two 3 inch muffler clamps and some heavy wall rectancular tube, welded...cost for one side 6-bucks. The links will be adjusted ( lenght ) when the bed is back on... I`m cheap:innocent:

Rich 5150 69
09-20-2012, 11:46 PM
The big brown truck dropped off my springs today so I can move forward...he stopped for about fifteen minutes spent the time jawing, he looked the coupe over, he`s building a `30 ford pu..

Blackedoutharley
09-24-2012, 08:26 PM
Rich, do you have drums on the front or have you converted to disc?

Rich 5150 69
09-24-2012, 10:22 PM
I`m still running drums, thou I have picked up about half the parts I need to change to disc, I still haven`t done it maybe in the future...just hasn`t been in my priorties, the drums seem to work well especially once you split the system and add a booster.

Blackedoutharley
09-24-2012, 10:59 PM
Any possibility you might do it this weekend? I need one of your drum brake front hub assemblies! LOL!

Rich 5150 69
09-24-2012, 11:14 PM
Any possibility you might do it this weekend? I need one of your drum brake front hub assemblies! LOL!

No not anyway soon, there ought to be a lot of farmer trucks out your way, you just gotta get out in the back roads...there was a ranch back up highway 70, the guy must of had like six trucks just sitting there rotting away...you could see them from the road..

Rich 5150 69
09-25-2012, 09:03 AM
Just remembered to order my shocks, I ordered PN 34904 gas shocks monroe....went thru thier database to pull out the part number. Found a set on evilpay for 26 each....shipping free...

http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/english/08_MountingLengthSheet.pdf

Blackedoutharley
09-25-2012, 12:14 PM
Here is the one for Gabriel shocks is anyone is interested in running their product.

http://gabriel.com/products/docs/Gabriel_Passenger_Vehicle_Catalog_Mounting_Codes.p df

Rich 5150 69
09-26-2012, 10:33 AM
Thanks BOH......, been searching after I bought, Oh well...here`s some more surprising facts....although we knew that angle would lessen the damping effect, I just didnot think it would impact it that much...I may just relocate them altogether on down the road. Our shocks down to about 30 degrees but I will have to get the protractor level out to check.... I`m now considering moving them to the out side of the frame and flipping the lowers ( switch from side to side ) so they exit the rear and run up to the frame outside.... I think It would offer more part numbers and not nessarily more expensive shock as you would have more dampening effect with a cheaper shock. thoughts...? :ohyes: Update Just got thru checking mine are at 40 degees, actually closer to 42 degees as the suspension compresses its even more...man that is ugly....! Don`t think GM planned that out very well..

Angle of the Dangle...... this thru KYB 4x4 review site :grin:

Mounting shocks at angles reduces the overall dampening effect of the shock. Reason being; the shock’s mechanisms will travel geometrically, less of a distance than that of the suspension system. Some vehicles (early model Land Cruisers, etc.) have their rear shocks mounted at about a 30-degree inward (inward = leaning toward the differential, not forward or aft-ward) angle, while others have their shocks mounted at a 20 degree angle or so forward and/or aft ward of the rear axle (e.g. Chevy, Jeep CJ’s, etc.). There are several reasons why this might be done. First, available space… regardless, if this is something you are going to do yourself, you’ll need to increase the static pressure of shock to mimic the shocks effectiveness of it being in a perpendicular location. Secondly, you can gain more suspension articulation than would normally be limited by the overall travel of the shock absorber if it were located perpendicular to that of mounting your shocks at an angle, if you don’t have room for a taller shock absorber. The charts here show the overall estimated reduced effectiveness of a raked shock absorber. However, these numbers should only be used as a rule of thumb as other factors such as the arc of the suspension cycle can factor in.

http://www.4x4review.com/Portals/1/OldImages/feature/shock-genius-1.gif

Lakeroadster
09-26-2012, 08:27 PM
Interesting stuff Rich.

As I understand it the angle isn't a problem for certain style of shocks, based on how they are designed. Some shocks can operate upside down or in a horizontal position. So IMO a fella would really need to pick a shock style and manufacturer and then ask them for technical assistance.

I used Monro-Matic Plus P/N 32207 shocks on my truck after I installed my home brewed upper shock relocators. Ref. post #51 here: http://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=13928&page=4

Before doing the upper shock relocators I contacted Monroe because in the stock position, with 5" lowering springs, my shocks were 40 degrees off vertical, just like yours.

Here is what Monroe sent me via email:

Thank you for contacting Tenneco Automotive.

The shocks would not function properly if they were mounted more than 30 degrees off from 90. With them being 40 degrees off, they may tend to have lapses in dampening.

Thank you for your interest in our products.

Monroe Team Member,

Andy

Interestingly enough my old shocks, the ones that came on the truck when I bought it, were pretty much useless. After I installed the new upper brackets I reinstalled the old shocks and they worked much better, but I replaced them anyway becasue they were too long and were bottoming out :eek: !

enigma
09-26-2012, 10:37 PM
wow thanks guy's

Rich 5150 69
09-26-2012, 11:42 PM
Interesting stuff Rich.

Interestingly enough my old shocks, the ones that came on the truck when I bought it, were pretty much useless. After I installed the new upper brackets I reinstalled the old shocks and they worked much better, but I replaced them anyway becasue they were too long and were bottoming out :eek: !

As was my case John, mine were just too long from the get go, but as I was ordering from amazon I changed my mind again and went with the 32207 shock out of desparation at the very last second....:giggle:, but I think I will look into building new upper shock mounts to bolt up to the ouside frame rail and use the approximate location off of the trailing arms but will wait til I get the bed back on for ride height and see what I come up with. The fleetside bed being wider creates the height issue, the step side you could run the uppers higher than the frame like we do for the fronts on our traditional street rods. (the beds only being as wide as the frame I think).....maybe I have enough room in the rear of the fender wheel well of the fleetside to execute this...just not sure...:wave2:

The shocks would not function properly if they were mounted more than 30 degrees off from 90. With them being 40 degrees off, they may tend to have lapses in dampening.

Sounds like me in the morning after waking up....:sHa_dielaughing2:

Blackedoutharley
09-27-2012, 12:29 AM
For some reason I seem to remember the pre '63 trucks having the shocks attach to the frame behind the rear end.. Don't know if the angle is any better or worse but might be worth a look.

I am looking at specs so I can get a rear shock for truck now.... so far the Chevy Luv application is looking good.

Lakeroadster
09-27-2012, 06:49 AM
Rich,

Seems like I recall either the 60-62 trucks or 4x4's did have the rear shocks mounted on the outside of the frame?

I did some surfing and as of yet haven't found anything to back my "less than accurate" memory.

I'll keep looking...

Update: Here ya go, No Limit makes a kit that emulates the earlier 60-62 series shock mount style.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=444925&highlight=Limit+63-72+Rear+Shock+Kit
I waded into the thread back in Feb. of 2011, I like the upper mount, but the lower mount is too weak for a truck that actually hauls loads. It will bend and possibly fail, as designed. It would be easy enought to modify it though so the shock bolt is held similar to the way they did the top mount.

http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/28427/2550394890103882008S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2550394890103882008CeDjUY)
http://inlinethumb10.webshots.com/51913/2293553300103882008S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2293553300103882008wraAQE)
http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/51003/2834939380103882008S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2834939380103882008KjPZLA)
http://inlinethumb43.webshots.com/49194/2831676140103882008S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2831676140103882008SzDmEu)

Rich 5150 69
09-27-2012, 11:00 AM
[QUOTE=Lakeroadster;29427]Rich,

Seems like I recall either the 60-62 trucks or 4x4's did have the rear shocks mounted on the outside of the frame?

I did some surfing and as of yet haven't found anything to back my "less than accurate" memory.

Thanks for the link John, thats sorta like I was describing, my issue is now I have the sway bar in that location, done but not installed or holes drilled in frame so i still have opportunity to move things around a little...By the way KYB does have a shorter shock that will work for us...PN 343144 if I`ve deciphered it right....:ssshhh: For those that want to dicipher...
http://www.kyb.com/technical/documents/ShockDimensionsSecured.pdf

Blackedoutharley
09-27-2012, 04:49 PM
343144 is a front shock application for an old VW Bug... I would be worried that the valving isn't enough for a truck.

Rich 5150 69
09-27-2012, 06:46 PM
343144 is a front shock application for an old VW Bug... I would be worried that the valving isn't enough for a truck.

I read that as well, but read on further on other sites they were designed originally for the VW Falia camper bus, unleaden weight at 3,200 lbs, max weight 5,000, the reason they became so popular was that they bolted right up to the standard VW thus giving them much better handling characteristics, sort of a low buck bolt on...just like they were ripping out the bus motors and putting them into the bugs. It dosen`t matter right now anyways as I have ordered the 32207 but will keep the KYB`s in my mind latter...

Blackedoutharley
09-29-2012, 03:44 AM
Shock question posed on the thread about my truck to not tie up space on yours.

Rich 5150 69
09-29-2012, 11:26 AM
anyways I`m laying out plans now to relocate shocks to the outside, flipping the lower shock mount around to exit the outside rear, will have to modify.. box it and extend it back about one inch with quarter inch plate, it will run parallel with brake drum, bolt on shock stud, build mount for frame rail to mount upper just behind bump stop bracket....it will have an eight to ten degree tilt at the top inward. just measuring quickly it will use a 17 inch extended shock. Thoughts...?

Lakeroadster
10-07-2012, 08:28 AM
Rich,

Seems like I recall either the 60-62 trucks or 4x4's did have the rear shocks mounted on the outside of the frame?

Here is a photo of the stock configuration outside frame mounted shocks, circa 1960 - 1962:
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/Generic%20Chevrolet%20Pickup/Frame201.jpg

Rich 5150 69
10-09-2012, 11:40 AM
Here`s the last pic I took...almost done with the small things, started building new upper shock mounts for frame rails, when done I post a pic of them...got to many honey do`s creeping up on me again....:boxers::frustrated:

Rich 5150 69
10-09-2012, 11:53 AM
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2293553300103882008wraAQE
You know John looking at this pic, they don`t have much travel in this pic of the shock and it looks as if the suspension is loaded...maybe two inches at best, I`m assumming there`s no load in the bed as well..:no: This doesn`t say much for their engineering...:ssshhh:

Lakeroadster
10-09-2012, 07:36 PM
This doesn`t say much for their engineering...:ssshhh:
[/QUOTE]

When people name their company "No Limit Engineering" ya kind of set yourself up for ridicule :giggle:

I went a few rounds with them over on that other truck site in regards to the lower mounts for this very set-up, looks to weak to me and I rab some FEA to back up my point. I think No Limit is more of an R&D seat of the pants than a company that uses FEA and R&D before selling their products. I could be wrong, but like you, some of the stuff I see makes me nervous.

But then again I always over Engineer stuff to be hell-for-stout.

Rich 5150 69
10-11-2012, 08:39 PM
Well tank install is done, took sender out of box modified the float arm per instructions and come to fine out the resistor arm won`t hardley move, sent Bob Drake an e-mail but they were already closed, so now I`m waiting again...

Lakeroadster
10-11-2012, 09:20 PM
Rich,

Are you using your stock guages? For what it's worth I purchased my fuel sending unit, 0-30 ohms, from Brothers and it worked great right out of the box.

Rich 5150 69
10-12-2012, 02:28 PM
Yes John, stock gauge, Drake`s aleady contacted me this morning asked me to send it back to them, the new one is being shipped out today as well...guess I can`t complain to much, it actually is a good design and well made piece although made in China, they just stamped the stainless bracket`s together a little to tight, the service guy at Drakes went and pulled one off the shelf when I was talking with him and double checked the operation of the replacement before I got off the phone with him. Its all done except fuel line which I`ll do today...I thnk. Fuel filter I will have to move forward as my track bar bracket is way big and in the way, I`m thinking just under the rear part of the cab..

Lakeroadster
10-12-2012, 07:35 PM
Looking good Rich!

Rich 5150 69
10-12-2012, 08:07 PM
You remember Jocko from the darkside....? He sold his truck to supposedly a good home last night, posted it on the site, kinda of shocked everyone, it turned up on e-bay today....12,500 and going.....

Lakeroadster
10-12-2012, 09:07 PM
Yeah, Jocko is good people. I bet he is sick about the situation, awesome truck he built.

I know it's capitalism (making a buck) and that's all good, but Flip My Truck? It just seems wrong to make a buck off of the guy that put in the sweat equity. So many shyster's, so little time.

Chicago5
10-13-2012, 08:30 AM
Wow. This looks really nice. I want to relocate the fuel tank on my '72 eventually. Comparing the different years, what I've seen so far for options doesn't look quite as clean and slick as for this style and year. Good going on this one.

enigma
10-13-2012, 11:24 AM
agreed chicago i like the flex hose he used

Rich 5150 69
10-14-2012, 12:40 AM
I owe a lot to John for this, between the two of us we have beat this thing to death over in the dark side, the boyds tanks are very nice, but come with a very nice price of almost $500, the blazer tanks 25 gallon are to deep hang down to far, the 21 gallon still had some issues but not sure what they were, some guys had resorted to hanging camaro tanks up against the bottom of the frame rails, IMOP they did-not look right, the other alternative was the early mustang tank which would sit right down on top of the rails and would bolt right down thru the flanges onto the rails, which look ok, problem was they were only 16 gallon and the filler would come straight up just about middle of the rear of the bed.

Blackedoutharley
10-14-2012, 04:11 AM
This is on my "to do" list for next year, along with A/C I'm thinking... I think I would be okay with filling through the bed towards the tailgate but I don't really want to give up capacity below the 18 gallon tank in the cab.

LostMy65
10-15-2012, 12:45 AM
Wow!
http://www.67-72chevyboard.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8331&stc=1&d=1350067482

Rich 5150 69
10-16-2012, 08:39 AM
Ok so while I`m waiting for the new sender to get here I decided to change trany fluid and filter, color looked good, small amount of grey sludge about the size of your small finger nail, but a whole bunch of flakes :pray: so guessing I`ll be in he market for a trans here real quick, I`ll be looking for a 700r4 and prob another motor sense all this has almost 200k on it....

GMCDAC
10-16-2012, 10:19 PM
Looks great thanks for the step by step!

Blackedoutharley
10-17-2012, 02:24 AM
Summit has the GM 260hp crate engine on sale right now for about $1550 delivered. For the transmission you might check with ATO in Rancho Cordova.

Or maybe just freshen up your engine?

Rich 5150 69
10-17-2012, 02:38 AM
Your the second one to say ATO,, so I`ll go check them out sense its close, motor wise I`m going to do a mild build, oil wise it uses a lot now, about a quart every 1,000 miles...thats what happens with short gears and running the freeway all the time. It dosen`t show smoke but I bet its getting close.

Rich 5150 69
10-20-2012, 11:08 PM
What you don`t know is that I decided to use the prefab fuel lines, picked upe two lenghts of 3/8 - 5 ft each, cool, get them home come to find out that they only make them with metric fittings....:soapbox::dummy: arrgh ....ok after my intial fit I run back to Napa to get a 1/4 18 thread standard to metric tank fitting ...course they don`t have one, they don`t stock them...WTF, ok so order me one...so $6.50 later it will be here Monday, why don`t they tell you these were metric from the get go..anyways when I get this done and the bed back on, I`ll pull my tank out, do some floor repair with cold rolled steel 18 gauge to weld in a new section where the PO had a floor shifter, I think they cut it out with an ax :eek: and I have to fill the old filler hole with a section from the donor hood I`m using for the cowl hood. The compound corner looks about perfect at one point to use on the cab, I`ll have to practice my welding again for the sheet metal.:innocent:

Lakeroadster
10-21-2012, 07:47 AM
when I get this done and the bed back on, I`ll pull my tank out, do some floor repair with cold rolled steel 18 gauge to weld in a new section where the PO had a floor shifter, I think they cut it out with an ax....

Previous Owners... what were they thinking? :no:

I gotta share what I found when I removed the carpet on my truck back in Oct 2009. The shifter whole was big enough to almost stick your head through :popworm:.

I welded in a 2nd generation Camaro 4-speed trans. hump.

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/Interior%20Redeux/Floor%20Shifter%20and%20Hump%20Oct%202009/2009_10240017.jpg

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/Interior%20Redeux/Floor%20Shifter%20and%20Hump%20Oct%202009/2009_11140007.jpg

Rich 5150 69
10-21-2012, 09:44 AM
I`ll get a pic of mine, you can`t see the carnage from the top side at least they used galvinized sheet seel and pop rivets on the top of it, the underside looks like the titanic.....:giggle:

Rich 5150 69
11-01-2012, 12:40 PM
Here`s the pic of my PO patch job as I said this pic does not show the damage underneath, looks as if they used a can opener...

so back to the bed reinstall decided to have a look at the bed sills, one of them not good, the pads to frame area on both sides of number one sill up against the cab is falling apart, ( note stress fractures of second photo ) I will cut off the pads and install new ones cut from 1/8 th steel plate..I don`t think that this one is original to the truck, its not as good looking as the rest...

Lakeroadster
11-01-2012, 06:31 PM
Rich,

File this under "For what it's worth":

I took the time to weld all the pads to the cross sills on my truck. The little spot welds were broken on a couple of them. Once the spot welds break that portion of the the cross sills will just crush down. Not sure it's really needed, but it was easy to do.

John

Rich 5150 69
11-02-2012, 09:45 AM
Thanks John that was kinda of my plan to rebuild them, I`ll get this one done and inspect the rest a little closer at the welds, I just glanced up at them the first time.

Rich 5150 69
11-04-2012, 01:33 AM
One bed sill is done, started the second one tonight, the spot welds were good but the pads were fractured on this one as well one side only, drilled out the spot welds ( very tiny spot welds maybe 1/8 the inch, 6 of them on each pad) and cut a new pad from 1/8 inch flat stock I couldn`t roll the edges up like the originals so I just tapered them with the four inch grinder at the outside edges, put eight heavy spot welds on each side rail/pad....I still would like to put another bed stiffner rail in just before the frame kicks up against the bed ( its just a short dept piece of c-channel the width of the bed.

Lakeroadster
11-04-2012, 07:56 AM
I bought a cross sill from Mar-k when I widened my bed to splice into the stock ones. Good quality and nearly matched the factory pieces, just a little sharper break lines.

They also sell the reinforcement strips for $25.00.

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/Generic/Mar-kReinforcementStrip.jpg

Rich 5150 69
11-04-2012, 09:23 AM
I bought a cross sill from Mar-k when I widened my bed to splice into the stock ones. Good quality and nearly matched the factory pieces, just a little sharper break lines.

They also sell the reinforcement strips for $25.00.

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/Generic/Mar-kReinforcementStrip.jpg

Thats probably not a bad idea John, I`ll make a call today if my local guy ( parts truck ) doesen`t have one, I also need to buy two 0.5 x 1.0 x 60 inch UHMW high density plastic strips ( same material to make those 5 gallon plastic buckets ) to fill in the gap at the end of the head board and the back by the tail gate beneath the diamond plate,....I removed what was left of the plywood sheeting beneath the diamond plate, at least this will not hold moisture. I am looking to install a mid seventies chevy tailgate latch as well, and a set of F##d taligate suspenders, remove old tank, fill hole, install consol, carpeting, seats and park brake lever in trans tunnel... Oh..and the alt lost a diode so I`ll have to pick up a rebuild kit ( New battery going dead when not driving it ) Nothing but projects, its gonna be a while before I get to the hood

Rich 5150 69
11-06-2012, 07:20 PM
I got the UHMW installed today, drilled about another ten holes for the
carraige bolts, need to install the last bed sill tomorrow and go find some muscle to drop the bed back on the truck...center it and drill the bed bottom for the filler and build a choke collar to bolt the filler to the bed. As I was cleaning up I used my leaf blower, blew out three more hornets nest from the underside of the bed sides...:eek:

Lakeroadster
11-06-2012, 08:30 PM
I used my leaf blower, blew out three more hornets nest from the underside of the bed sides...:eek:

Freakin' Hornets, seems to be more and more of them every year. Hornets like Classic Chevy's, well at least that's been my experience..

Rich 5150 69
11-07-2012, 08:55 AM
I have a question on the rear bed sill how does it mount to the frame or does it... I have searched evrywhere and can`t find an answer, when I bought my truck it had about half the pieces in the bed and that was 19 years ago.

Lakeroadster
11-08-2012, 05:26 PM
Rich,

Here is a photo of my stepside shortly after I removed what was left of the bed wood.

All the tall cross sills bolted to the frame, and the rear of the bed also bolts to the frame. I welded around the sheet metal v-shaped oem brackets that are attached to the rear bed sill. They had the same anemic spot welds as the pads on the cross sills. Some of the spot welds were broken.

I am not sure if a fleetside is the same but I think , based on what I have read, that it is, in regards to mounting configuration.

Hope that helps,

John

Stock Configuration:
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/Stepside%20Bed%20Modifications%20Oct%202010/Bed%20Wood/100_6786.jpg

In these shots I have bobbed the rear of the frame, but the rear sill brackets can be seen clearer:
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/Rear%20Mount%20Gas%20Tank%20Dec%202008/Fuel%20Filler%20April%202009/100_7540.jpg

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/Rear%20Mount%20Gas%20Tank%20Dec%202008/Fuel%20Filler%20April%202009/100_7527.jpg

Rich 5150 69
11-08-2012, 06:39 PM
So my assumption is that the factory never had a frame mount to support the rear sill under the tailgate, I have never seen any kind of mount, not even in the AIM manual.....I have spent literally about 6 hours looking at pics all over the web ....so ok something else to address....thanks for the pics John, I got some 1x1 mild steel rect tube, just right for the work.

Lakeroadster
11-08-2012, 08:21 PM
Rich,

Here is picture of a rear fleetside cross sill right off the Mar-k website, if that helps. The mount itself looks the same as a stepside to me. But your idea of fabricating one is likely going to be better than this oem sheet metal dealio.:

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/Generic%20Chevrolet%20Pickup/G5872Frcs.jpg

http://www.mar-k.com/Catalog/catalog.aspx

Rich 5150 69
11-08-2012, 09:18 PM
Maybe I`m missing something here, My bed has the rear crossmember with the mounts attached as you have shown, but that portion of the bed doesn`t reach the frame, I`ll need to fab up frame mounts for the bed mounts to sit on...I`m I making sense here...:giggle:

Lakeroadster
11-08-2012, 09:25 PM
Yep, that's wierd. The frame rails should extend all the way to those brackets, like shown here:

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/Stepside%20Bed%20Modifications%20Oct%202010/Bed%20Wood/100_6786.jpg

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/Stepside%20Bed%20Modifications%20Oct%202010/Bed%20Widening%20Marc%202009/BedMounting3.jpg

Previous Owners... man they do some wierd stuff, eh?

The very last holes in your frame should match up with the rear sill brackets?

Rich 5150 69
11-08-2012, 09:35 PM
Well maybe it does, I`ll have to get some measurements when the rains quit.....its one of those things that didnot come to light til the last minute.:giggle:

Rich 5150 69
11-09-2012, 01:37 PM
Filler location, I kind of wavered on this for a while, either outside on the side panel then back to the bed. Reason for the bed, if I do this right, I can also use this location by building a locking box from diamond plate over the filler, and if large enough to accomidate a bottle jack and handle and maybe a short lug wrench, located left rear side next to stake pocket
and wheel well.......:wave2: :ohyes: thoughts.....?

Lakeroadster
11-09-2012, 09:53 PM
My thoughts....

It's a truck, built to haul stuff, therefore the gas filler in the cargo area is "verboten".

Rich 5150 69
11-10-2012, 09:33 AM
I think the want will override the verboten, as much as I used my truck as a truck, I`ve never had the bed totally full, except when I moved my parents down from Chico and that was like 7 trips...so I don`t think it will have an issue, just a matter of planning. :grin: Note the bed still looks good after 19 years....had to dig around for the reciet it was 6061-t6 .250 plate, harder material ( not so shiny industrial ) but still cleans up real nice, bristle brush and water sometimes a little soap and its done.

Rich 5150 69
11-12-2012, 11:55 AM
Few more pics of filler / vent, need to change fuel line location too close to panhard bar, I`ll put a 90 on the tank and move the verticle run over two inches towards the frame rail...:innocent: not sure who did this....:blush:

Rich 5150 69
11-17-2012, 01:41 AM
Finally figuired out the bed rear sill issue, the bed is from a 60 to 62 truck, the bolt sill mounts are at 40 inch on center, the earlier frames were 42 inches wide, the 63 to 66 frames were 34 wide, so I will have to figuire out some mounts for the rear sill under the tailgate....holy crap just another pain in my side.....:grin:

Rich 5150 69
11-18-2012, 03:34 PM
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/R515069/DSCF0343.jpg
Here's the filler installed, it's almost transparent, need to pick up material for the box..

Lakeroadster
11-18-2012, 05:40 PM
Looking good Rich.

Bummer about the rear sill attachment issue. If only you had caught that earlier you could have welded some brackets to your rear frame crossmember.

Rich 5150 69
12-04-2012, 01:38 PM
Rear shot of tank ....? Ten feet back, one foot off ground....,!

Lakeroadster
12-04-2012, 08:46 PM
And that's what I am talking about! My favorite tank installations are of the "NoSeeUm" variety. :ohyes:

GMCDAC
12-04-2012, 10:12 PM
What you can't see sometimes looks great! Nice work!

Chicago5
12-05-2012, 10:01 AM
Yep. Very nicely done. Being in the very rear of the frame, does it affect steering or suspension when you've got a full tank of fuel?

Rich 5150 69
12-05-2012, 11:38 AM
No not anything you would notice.

Rich 5150 69
01-03-2013, 02:37 PM
Lately been thinking of another major change, going back to a four speed, but instead of using a muncie or a T-10, I`ll use a NV 833, four speed OD which is based on the earlier mopar four speed which was NV a-833, the newer version was used sense `75 to `85 on mopar trucks and on GM trucks from `80 to `87 the GM rpo was MY6, the differance betwen the two are the mopar uses a longer input shaft, but thru advance adapters you can use the mopar on a chevy bellhousing. The pass car mopar 833 uses the same model number but not OD...strange... anyways they have several differant ratios for them, all the OD trans has a .73 final ratio same as the 700r4, same lenght as the muncie ( mopar version longer ), strenght wise the mopar version was installed behind all the big block mopars as well as the sixes, they used a heavier version for the Hemi, the new version is alum case, but people I`ve talked with say its almost as tough as the muncie, so I`m on the hunt......
New version
http://image.customclassictrucks.com/f/18090118/0905cct_05_z+a883_four_speed_overdrive_transmissio n+aluminum_engine_case.jpg

ĝlder mopar verson
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-speeds/bbody-linkage.jpg

64tonka
01-05-2013, 10:24 PM
i love this truck, the way it sits, the wheels, and i know the power.

Blackedoutharley
01-06-2013, 02:12 AM
The Mopar 833 OD trans was installed in Plymouth Volare / Dodge Aspen cars too.

After a motorcycle accident (which was all that I owned at the time) my dad gave me his '78 Volare wagon that had the 225 slant six and od 4 spd.

I HATED THIS CAR! But it ran forever!

The 833 came in at least 2 versions though.... one was heavy duty and had a different input spline count than the non HD version (17 vs 23 spline if I remember correctly).

Rich 5150 69
03-01-2013, 09:37 PM
Here`s a pic of my 100 buck manifold I scored on CL today, I had momma drive me over there to have a look, it was mounted but never ran, the guy changed his mind after he bought it....she`s not real happy with me sense I`m literally broke,,,,:grin: Hey what else can I do... I`m either on here or two other sites or facbook and CL.....:wave2:

GMCDAC
03-01-2013, 10:14 PM
Still gotta keep getting the parts you need when you have the chance, even though you aren't up to doing the work right now! That's part of the incentive to get healed up again.

Later---DAC

Lakeroadster
03-02-2013, 08:40 AM
Nice score. Smokin hot deal.

Az Geezer
03-02-2013, 08:43 AM
Yah, that's a good deal any day.........

64tonka
03-02-2013, 09:32 AM
keep shopping and when you find what you need buy it and hold on to it, you will use it, (i have so much crap around my house) but it keeps me from always having to run out to the parts house.


i love this build of yours, i sometimes wish mine was a pick-up rather than a flatbed.

Az Geezer
03-02-2013, 09:55 AM
Nah, Henry, I love your truck.......maybe we should find you a pickup, because you're almost done with the flatbed already.

Lakeroadster
03-02-2013, 10:07 AM
i love this build of yours, i sometimes wish mine was a pick-up rather than a flatbed.

I too think Rich's truck is great, and I also agree with Bill. Your flatbed is awesome Henry, a classic that doubles as a workhorse.

Funny, we always tend to want something a bit different than what we have. I've been on a flatbed kick recently (due to seeing the truck below on a local craigslist posting). So now I am toying with scratch building a flatbed for my truck. Wouldn't take more than a day to swap back and forth and it would totally change the look of the truck.

Az Geezer
03-02-2013, 10:52 AM
Hmmm....I keep kicking around the idea of a flatbed truck to mount a water tank on to haul water instead of my water trailer.......

64tonka
03-02-2013, 10:57 AM
Bill i think that would be a fun build, buy a truck and bring it to me , or feed me and i will come that way !!

64tonka
03-02-2013, 11:02 AM
thanks, swapping out the beds would be great, i often think about having things that i could swap over on the 57 just to get a different look for a show or ?? then swap it back, i love the wheels that i have on it but sometimes i think i would like another set (bling)

I too think Rich's truck is great, and I also agree with Bill. Your flatbed is awesome Henry, a classic that doubles as a workhorse.

Funny, we always tend to want something a bit different than what we have. I've been on a flatbed kick recently (due to seeing the truck below on a local craigslist posting). So now I am toying with scratch building a flatbed for my truck. Wouldn't take more than a day to swap back and forth and it would totally change the look of the truck.

Rich 5150 69
03-02-2013, 11:27 AM
I'm with you guys, I like all of .....OUR ....trucks , I would take any of them in a minute, I guess it's just the truck thing. As far as swapping beds if you guys converted to studs to hold them down with, then is just a matter of nut removal and lift the beds off to change it out....:giggle:

Az Geezer
03-02-2013, 11:35 AM
Henry.........you're welcome any time..........I've got lots that needs to be done.......and Bonnie's a great cook.

Maui
03-02-2013, 05:59 PM
Hmmm....I keep kicking around the idea of a flatbed truck to mount a water tank on to haul water instead of my water trailer.......

You Can Do It!!!!

GMCDAC
03-02-2013, 11:14 PM
Hmmm....I keep kicking around the idea of a flatbed truck to mount a water tank on to haul water instead of my water trailer.......

But But But--- not your Longhorn---right????

Az Geezer
03-03-2013, 08:45 AM
Oh, no! My Longhorn is a Longhorn for life. I've even got a spare Longhorn bed. If I do it, it will probably be with a dually frame and cab. There's still a good supply of them running around around here.

Lakeroadster
03-03-2013, 08:46 AM
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/stock-photo-old-water-truck-807818_zpsc2bbd206.jpg

Chicago5
03-03-2013, 09:00 AM
But But But--- not your Longhorn---right????

:rofl: That's exactly how I was thinking! :rofl:

:pray: So, seriously, not the Longhorn right? :pray:

:cry2: No! Please! No! Not the Longhorn! :cry2:

Az Geezer
03-03-2013, 09:25 AM
Again.......no, not the Longhorn. I've often thought about a flatbed. My present setup is to tow a trailer that's a little over 1300 lbs, and a load (525 gallons) is about 4200 lbs, so the trailer full is 5500 lbs. My one ton Longhorn weighs over 4200 lbs. I've wondered if I couldn't haul with a flatbed and a 750/1000 gallon tank, and make fewer trips to the water station. Then, I start thinking about the cost of tires, insurance, plates (yah, like 20 bucks a year here) and I hesitate every time I see one for sale. As it is, I make 6 to 8 trips a month to the water station, which is a 25 mile round trip. So, I could reduce it to 4 or 5 trips a month? That's hard to justify.........but a flatbed would be just cool!
Bill

Rich 5150 69
03-04-2013, 08:44 PM
Been giving this carb overhaul some thought, I`ve got a 600 holley or reuse the quadrajet which will need an overhaul, eitherway will need to get them clean, and sense you can`t buy anything stronger than cocacola for cleaner in Calif I did some searching everybody here uses ( as if I didnot alredy know this ) simple Green or pinsol, in hot tap water let soak over night and rinse with hot water, blow out passages....noe of the store bought automotive cleaners here will get the job done, ( get ready its comming your way if it hasn`t already ) the berryman dip we used to buy is junk.....like I said maybe cocacola would work better. OK rant over.

Az Geezer
03-05-2013, 12:18 AM
Well, Rich........be thankful you're in California........I hear in New York you can't get your preferred carb cleaner in more that 16 oz bottles.

Rich 5150 69
03-05-2013, 05:49 PM
LOL.....I`d have to buy a 12 pack.......:eek:

Az Geezer
03-05-2013, 06:03 PM
I prefer 12 packs of a different brand..........

enigma
03-05-2013, 06:05 PM
lol here here

Rich 5150 69
03-17-2013, 09:30 PM
Been giving this tranny issue a lot of thought, back several lines ago when I told you guys about changing tranny fluid, and the amount of metal in it, so I`ve decided to use a saginaw four speed I have on hand, it was given to me some ten years ago, 1981 date of build, its in good shape its a single ring on the input shaft ( 2.54 first gear ratio ) which is the strongest of the saginaws, I just need linkage and shifter, bellhousing, not a lot to get, but hopefully the auto will hold up til I get all my parts lined up...after the surgery....might as well use what I got...right..!:cool:

Az Geezer
03-17-2013, 09:39 PM
Yup, we call those the free repairs...........

Rich 5150 69
03-19-2013, 09:09 PM
I just saved an article about the saginaws, the three speed overdrives that are out there, you can unbolt the tail shaft ( the overdrive section), and blow apart the four speed and incorporate the overdrive into the four speed, pretty slick,,,,

Rich 5150 69
05-24-2013, 10:24 PM
I picked up a set of rear lower shock mounts for free from Losthope, one of the locals on the dark side, going to mod them to move the shocks to the out side of the frame..I can work on these while trying to finish the healing process....:grin:

Rich 5150 69
06-12-2013, 04:34 PM
The last entry I picked up those lower rear shock mounts, well I decided to clean them up a bit before moding them, I used white vinegar, cost 1.93 for the gallon, I put half a gallon in a five gallon bucket, put the mounts into it so they were totally covered with vinegar, four days and here are the before and after pics, pretty good considering they were heavily encrusted with rust for 50 years, may take a lite scrubing but so far I haven`t touched them.

Lakeroadster
06-12-2013, 07:28 PM
Well that's just freakin' awesome!

As a side note the press GM used to make those shock mounts had to be a monster.

Rich 5150 69
06-12-2013, 07:36 PM
I will probably have to rinse it with some baking soda to neutralize the vinegar before paint...might take a little scrubing to finish it off, any dirt on there it doesn`t remove unless you scrub it.

Rich 5150 69
06-16-2013, 09:30 AM
By the way I had talked with an old restorer, well older than me, anyways he used to use vinegar all the time until somebody had told him about citric acid, now he uses it exclusively, he reason being he can up the strength, he normally uses a pound per gallon, but that gallon is used a long tme before he discards it, and it don`t smell as bad as the vinegar, he buys it in bulk 5 lbs at a time...http://www.wkfinetools.com/trestore/...itricacid1.asp

Rich 5150 69
06-16-2013, 09:31 AM
By the way I had talked with an old restorer, well older than me, anyways he used to use vinegar all the time until somebody had told him about citric acid, now he uses it exclusively, he reason being he can up the strength, he normally uses a pound per gallon, but that gallon is used a long tme before he discards it, and it don`t smell as bad as the vinegar, he buys it in bulk 5 lbs at a time...

http://www.wkfinetools.com/trestore/techniques/rust_citricacid/rust_citricacid1.asp

Lakeroadster
06-16-2013, 02:18 PM
Awesome tip and link Rich. I was so impressed that I created a separate thread over in the Paint and Body forum, just in case the link ever gets broken we'll still have the data. http://www.67-72chevyboard.com/forum/showthread.php?p=35114#post35114

Using Nitric Acid will be much less messy than dragging out the sandblaster, especially for smaller parts.

Thanks again :wtg:

Rich 5150 69
10-10-2013, 10:37 AM
Ran acoss an ad on CL for a set of springs for my truck, if I can get them cheap enough I will buy and cut one coil off and get rid of my torched springs...

Az Geezer
10-10-2013, 02:42 PM
Rich, you know to cut them with a cut off wheel, right?

Rich 5150 69
10-10-2013, 04:15 PM
Yes, ... ony one coil, at the bottom same location one coil up.

Az Geezer
10-10-2013, 04:32 PM
Yah, cut the side that's not tapered

Lakeroadster
10-10-2013, 06:48 PM
Rich those sure do look way to tall, or not rolled in a big enough diameter, to me. :popworm:

Rich 5150 69
10-10-2013, 09:11 PM
I haven`t called the guy yet to find out what exactly they are, he has a lot of differant parts, I won`t buy if he`s not sure but you`re right they do look differant.

Lakeroadster
10-10-2013, 09:36 PM
Maybe crawl under your truck and get an approximate overall diameter, wire size and number of coil revolutions?

The photo LMC shows for their front springs do look similar to the photo you posted?

Markeb01
10-19-2013, 06:26 PM
What John says. I'd be hesitant. Those look like locomotive springs to me.

Rich 5150 69
10-20-2013, 10:41 AM
I called the guy, he`s not sure so I passed on the springs...side note, when I did the tank install I changed the trans pan gasket and filter, leaking badly or so I thought, turned out to be the accumulator cover gasket, if the truck sits for more than three days it will start leaking and continue till the torque converter empties out or levels off, lost a quart already this week, ( been painting bedrooms in the house ) can`t get to the accumulator cover, exhaust in the way so been soaking the ram horns with PB blaster, hopefully won`t break the bolts on the ramhorns, probably loose another quart by the time I can get to this and you loose one quart when the cover comes off, kind of like niagara falls....:eek:

Rich 5150 69
12-01-2013, 12:21 PM
was in my truck turning into the parking lot of the local Home Depot on Saturday, a CHP was right behind me, didnot think anything of it tilI parked in a spot and he stopped right behind me, as I got out he was walking up to me and he said the reason I stopped was your tail lights aren`t legal, and I wanted to know where you bought them, I need a set for my `66 ....boy was I relieved and surprised..I told him I just bought the blue dots and drilled my own lens, I told him to go to SoCal speed shops or vintage ford he could just buy the blue dots, or if he needed the entire lense he could buy those at other sources, made a new friend, he said he would meet up some time and talk shop, we exchanged numbers....my blue dots here, first time I had a social stop...

Az Geezer
12-01-2013, 01:59 PM
LOL...........I passed a cop once on the Interstate. She was on the shoulder, had apparently just given someone a ticket. A few miles down the road she pulled me over in my Dart. I knew I wasn't speeding..........she told me she liked the looks of the car and wanted to know what it was...........with red lights flashin'........who'd a thunk, my Dart, a chick magnet!

Rich 5150 69
01-09-2014, 11:45 PM
Picked up a Excalibur engine hoist 4000 lb tonight, the guy just wanted it out of his garage $150, couldn`t pass it up...now I can play somemore...:giggle:

Lakeroadster
01-10-2014, 08:05 AM
New tools, is there anything better?

I've got one almost identical to that. It's handy and the best feature is it folds up and doesn't take up much space! Be sure to get an engine leveler if you don't have on, they're handy too.

I used mine to install and remove the bed on my '65 C10. And I did that probably 20 times!

Caution, watch your eyes... :LOOKDOWN: Old Ford photo

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1927%20Ford%20RPU/200110351.png (http://s645.photobucket.com/user/lakeroadster/media/1927%20Ford%20RPU/200110351.png.html)

Az Geezer
01-10-2014, 08:24 AM
Show me more about that "old Ford"...........

Lakeroadster
01-10-2014, 08:47 AM
Show me more about that "old Ford"........... Here ya go Bill: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=665685

Didn't want to hijack Rich's Build Thread with a bunch of Ford photo's. I think in Texas they hang you for that sort of stuff. :giggle:

Az Geezer
01-10-2014, 09:30 AM
hijackin! Guilty as charged............get a rope!

Rich 5150 69
03-06-2014, 04:45 PM
So where is the old ford today John, still have it.....? Back to the bed on my truck, decided to revisit the rear bed sill issue, after much research fiquired out that the bed is from a 60 to 62, due to the spacing of the rear bed sill bolt locations and evidently John ( Lakeroadster ) has the same, whoda thunk we both had differant beds,....but what I don`t understand is why John`s bracket does not reach the frame...here`s a pic from Allen`s truck and sense I had drilled out all 9 spot welds, moved the brackets in and plugg welded them in they sit right on the holes in the frame, This was done about a week and a half ago, now the new issue is this new mod had impacted the level of the bed, one of two options, buildin spacers for the rest of bed mounts or cut down the rear bed sills by 5/8 of an inch.....ARRRGGGG....LOL, gotta love doing this.....!

Lakeroadster
03-06-2014, 08:06 PM
So where is the old ford today John, still have it.....? Back to the bed on my truck, decided to revisit the rear bed sill issue, after much research fiquired out that the bed is from a 60 to 62, due to the spacing of the rear bed sill bolt locations and evidently John ( Lakeroadster ) has the same, whoda thunk we both had differant beds,....but what I don`t understand is why John`s bracket does not reach the frame...

Yeah, still got the old Ford... it's in the garage waiting for spring.

As for the frame on my '65, I cut the end of the frame off... had to in order to make room for the license plate bracket on the roll pan. Why, there should be lot's of room., right? Well.... No. I installed the roll pan between the rear stepside fenders and not as it was designed: to be hanging off the back of the bed like an afterthought.

And the bed on my truck... it's from a 67-72. One of the first things I ever did to the truck was remove the 67-72 fenders and steps and replaced them with the correct 55-65 style fenders.

As for using spacers between the bed cross sills and the frame, I used wooden spacers on my truck to raise bed steps level with the bottom of the cab. But since you have a fleetside that's not an option... it will throw off the body lines of the cab vs. the bed.

Wrong bed http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/As%20Purchased%20Aug%202008/65C10FrontAug2008-AsPurchased-.jpg

Cutting the frame http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/Rear%20Mount%20Gas%20Tank%20Dec%202008/Prepping%20Frame%20Dec%202008/100_6900.jpg

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/Rear%20Mount%20Gas%20Tank%20Dec%202008/Prepping%20Frame%20Dec%202008/100_6906.jpg

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/Cab%20Rear%20Air%20Vents%20Sep%202010/2010_12010007-1.jpg

Bed Spacers http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/Stepside%20Bed%20Modifications%20Oct%202010/Bed%20to%20Frame%20Spacer%20Blocks/DSCF1578.jpg

This is a photo of the rear bed support, it is not stock. I fabricated this mount during the rear frame changes when I did the frame mount gas tank. Close quarters back here due to the location of the modified roll pan.
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/Stepside%20Bed%20Modifications%20Oct%202010/Bed%20to%20Frame%20Spacer%20Blocks/DSCF1571.jpg

Notice how the roll pan is between the fenders... and the step lines up with the bottom of the cab:
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/1%20Current%20Status%20Photos/GEDC1240_zps891b7090.jpg (http://s645.photobucket.com/user/lakeroadster/media/1965%20Chevrolet%20C10%20Pickup/1%20Current%20Status%20Photos/GEDC1240_zps891b7090.jpg.html)

Az Geezer
03-06-2014, 08:52 PM
OK........now I'm learning something new. I mistakenly thought stepside beds we specific to "groups", like 55-59, 60-66,67-72............not true????

Lakeroadster
03-06-2014, 09:52 PM
OK........now I'm learning something new. I mistakenly thought stepside beds we specific to "groups", like 55-59, 60-66,67-72............not true????

Well, kind of true :yes:, kind of not true :no:. Mar-k has a great write up on this, find it here: http://www.mar-k.com/bed_side_interchange_gm.aspx

The 55-2 (Second Series) through 1966 stepside beds aren't identical, but very similar. The cross-sills however changed to match the frame hole locations. (for instance the pre-63's were x frames that were wider than the 63 and later ladder frames which were narrower.

Fenders are the same, 55-2 through 1965. In 1966 they added back-up lights so the fenders had a round bump added for the back-up lights.

Rich 5150 69
03-11-2014, 12:20 PM
The 60 to 66 and only speaking of them because that is the only ones I`ve worked with, its only the rear last two feet that are wider on the 60 to 62, not the entire frame and so back to my bed I remember now that John`s bed was from a newer truck, just been trying to decide the best way approach to this, really leaning toward just triming the rear mounts down a half inch, maybe 3/4 inch and weld the bottom pad back on, then there will not be any spacers on the bed frame, as the bed sits right now sligthly leaning forward, and the second bed sill going forward has a half inch gap from the frame, half to determine how much to trim off the rear mounts....:putergreet013:

Lakeroadster
03-11-2014, 01:22 PM
The 60 to 66 and only speaking of them because that is the only ones I`ve worked with, its only the rear last two feet that are wider on the 60 to 62, not the entire frame ....

Here are a few drawings.

It's pretty amazing just how different the X-frame designs are from the later ladder designs. The 60-62 are considerably wider, from about mid -cab back, not just the last 2 feet. That is one reason why if you try to swap cabs from a 60-62 to a 63-66 you have to change cab mounts.

60-62 Frame frame width is 42" :LOOKDOWN::
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/Chevrolet%20Truck%20Stuff/1960-1962GMC-ChevyFrameSchematic_zpsd2dc3a8d.jpg (http://s645.photobucket.com/user/lakeroadster/media/Chevrolet%20Truck%20Stuff/1960-1962GMC-ChevyFrameSchematic_zpsd2dc3a8d.jpg.html)

63-66 Frame, max width is about 38-1/2", but 34" in the rear :LOOKDOWN::
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/uu176/lakeroadster/Chevrolet%20Truck%20Stuff/image2_zps805dbfcd.jpg (http://s645.photobucket.com/user/lakeroadster/media/Chevrolet%20Truck%20Stuff/image2_zps805dbfcd.jpg.html)

Rich 5150 69
06-15-2014, 09:39 AM
Moved the rear mounts in drilling out p spot welds on each mount, moving them to the `63/`66 position welded them back in, heavy rubber spacers cut for the balance of the other 6 mounts all is in....the installed swap meet coolant recocery bottle, new to me, 5 buck special, put new o-ring at the cap and new hoses on it, used one factory bolt hole for the rad shroud support to install, I hate drilling new holes if it can be avoided,,,first pic with old plasctic overflow I installed 20 years ago, second two pics of new bottle...

Rich 5150 69
06-18-2014, 12:25 PM
Yesterday changed oil, and replace the shifter shaft seal on the TH350, bought the tool to pull the seal out, this made it real easy old one out and new one in in fifteen minutes, bought thru Napa cost $6. and some change worth every penny...

Lakeroadster
06-18-2014, 12:53 PM
Good to know, thanks for posting.

Az Geezer
06-18-2014, 03:03 PM
Rich, I've paid a LOT more than that to have them replaced. Can you tell me how it's done?

Rich 5150 69
06-18-2014, 05:37 PM
The tool / tap has threads on the end, slide over shaft, using a wrench clockwise as you excert pressure on the end of it, it will thread itself into the inside of the seal, you can feel it tighten up, then insert the puller into the end turn clockwise to pull seal out, the second portion of the tool is the hollow press that fits the seal to tap new seal into place....

Az Geezer
06-18-2014, 07:18 PM
Thanks, Rich...........that looks plenty easy enough for even me to do. This should get posted in the new section on the site............

Rich 5150 69
06-30-2014, 01:05 AM
Noticed lately truck running kinda crappy, I`m down to the carb, its a `69 quadrajet 4MV so guess I pick up a carb kit for it, and also install the new manifold I picked up a few months back or was that a year ago, yep had to go back and look, 3/1/2013....anyways, I believe one of the plugs underside the quad is leaking, so I`ll go ahead and pull it all down clean all new gaskets, I want to change out the secondary metering rods to a slightly smaller set, I rebuilt this carb 20 years back, I put a throttle shaft bushing kit on it, but may have to do it again, and put the new manifold on same time, need to find anothe aluminum T-stat housing with the o=ring design they seal better....I would really like to find a `74 to `79 quad as the have an accessible APT for better part throttle adjustment....

KennesawJim
08-08-2014, 11:51 AM
Nice ride! You are way out in front of me! I'll be posting pics of my 66 Chevy long bed soon. I need those bed wheel wells! I've got crappy metal tack-welded over my non-existent wood bed. I've got 90 rusted old bolts to chew off before I can replace it correctly. Let us see your progress.

Rich 5150 69
01-04-2016, 11:50 PM
I'm back, can't believe it's been a year.....crap..! been busier than a rat in a snake box, I'm sure my temperament has shown that.....haven't touched the truck sense we moved other load it to the hilt, actually haven't touched any of the cars other than the jeep, and it was out of necessity, had to change axle and carrier bearings, arrg, what a pain....I'll post more tomorrow.....!

Az Geezer
01-05-2016, 02:39 AM
Good to see you back, Rich!

BAGGED70C-10
01-05-2016, 11:42 AM
Great to have you back... :wave2:

Rich 5150 69
01-16-2016, 07:26 AM
So ok, quick up date, May 30, of 2014 was my last post, we decided to move, we decided too move south, small town, started looking, this was every day, and at the same time watching realtor.pro, we made the offer on a bank owned home, offered way less that they wanted, they took it, OH crap, what have I just done, got the keys on Dec 23 of 2014, been busy 24/7 ever sense, other than a few things now we are pretty much on our way of being able to slow down...actually we were supposed to down size but as things happen we just bought bigger...well at least I still have a bigger three car garage, with RV access and a shop with car port....! These were the realtor pics..

Az Geezer
01-16-2016, 09:17 AM
WOW! You've been busy.........are you retired, Rich? What town is your new home in? Looks like a great place.

Rich 5150 69
01-17-2016, 08:39 PM
Yes sir, Retired, 3rd year, worked at one spot for too long, 41 years...the wife and I decided to move to someplace quieter, so we moved 27 miles south, Galt Calif, we bought a fixer...bank owned, got a deal on it...its been fun, ripped out two baths, remodeled, painted the entire one half of the house, installed bucket LED`s thru out, scrapped popcorn ceilings down, removed four layers of wall paper in the master bedroom, textured walls and ceiling in two of the bedrooms... next is kitchen....:grin: pics of Master bathe before and after..

Az Geezer
01-18-2016, 07:17 AM
Good for you...........and, Bonnie and I are thinking it's about time to retire, too. We'll see......